Sonex lights and wire choice

[DCASonex]

Hi all,

I bought some 1/4" OD poly tubing at Lowes Depot, <$4 for 25'. It fits right into the tooling holes in the ribs and would hold either a twisted pair (LED landing lights) or twisted triple (LED nav and strobe) 20 or 22 gauge wire. In Mike's picture above, he mounted his gaugepods forward of the spar. At the gaugepods site, they mount behind the spar. Any thoughts if one is better than the other? If I mount behind the spar, I would use the forward tooling hole in the aft rib for the nav/strobe lights. For the landing lights, I would run a tube/wire in the aft hole of the forward ribs.

For landing lights I have the fresh aero units with the Sonex installation kit. In their pictures it shows the nav light forward of the spar. I bought these from Dennis on the Sonexbuilders classifieds. They seem like really nice and reasonably priced units.
http://www.freshaero.com/tlrlight.html

For nav light mounts I have the gaugepod units.
Picture from their site:


If I can't get confirmation that I will get approval to fly at night with non-TSO lights I will probably buy Whelen Orion 650's:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/ ... series.php

Any thoughts on this plan?

[Sonex1243]

I ran my Lowes aviation department wire conduit through the forward rib tooling holes for the wing tip and light LED's. I think I will ultimately mount my gauge pod / AERO LED's behind the main spar, to do so, I drilled a small hole and installed a grommet in the tip web for the shielded three wire to pass through. On the inboard end, I spiral wrapped the wires from the conduit end to the connector.

[Sonex1243]

Any thoughts if one is better than the other? If I mount behind the spar, I would use the forward tooling hole in the aft rib for the nav/strobe lights. For the landing lights, I would run a tube/wire in the aft hole of the forward ribs.

I had seen some comments to use the forward rib holes, only because using the aft rib holes puts your wiring run on the same side with the flap and aileron control pass through the fuselage making it difficult / troublesome to disconnect everything when / if you ever remove your wings. my quick .02c.

[Bryan Cotton]

All,
I am thinking of leaving the strobes on all the time - no switch, just a breaker. The thought would be an aid to remember the master switch. Any issues drawing 2A on the ground for strobes when alternator output is low?

[SonexN76ET]

I have a red LED beacon on my turtle deck that is on whenever the master switch is on. It signals to people in the areas that the aircraft is in operation and reminds me that the master is still on if I forget to turn it off. It only draws about .1 amps.

I would be reluctant to have a 2 amp light system drawing power all the time. When an AeroVee is idling it is not putting out any alternator current. I don't think it starts charging until you are at 1900 rpm. Even with a fully charged battery, if I have a long taxi my low voltage light starts blinking while making my radio calls announcing my takeoff. While taxiing, my mode C encoder is warming up, I have the engine monitor on, and the radio is on as well as my iPAD and ILEVIL AW. So, plan for ways to minimize your electrical demands during warmup and taxi taking into account the minimal alternator output at low rpm.

I have the Whelan Orion system too. It works great! I have it on a separate switch.

Jake

[wlarson861]

Any thoughts if one is better than the other? If I mount behind the spar, I would use the forward tooling hole in the aft rib for the nav/strobe lights. For the landing lights, I would run a tube/wire in the aft hole of the forward ribs.

I had seen some comments to use the forward rib holes, only because using the aft rib holes puts your wiring run on the same side with the flap and aileron control pass through the fuselage making it difficult / troublesome to disconnect everything when / if you ever remove your wings. my quick .02c.

The opening into the fuselage is only in front of the spar. If you run wires in the aft ribs you will have to create an opening to run the wires into the fuselage and the wires will have to cross the spar tunnel to get to the panel switch, power and ground. I ran mine through grommets in the aft tooling hole in the nose ribs to a Molex connector so I can unplug the wires and remove the wings.

[gammaxy]

I think with the PC625 you should be fine. I think you should only count on the alternator as a source of power in flight, though, and realize it takes about 15 minutes to recharge the battery. I get pretty much the same effect by never turning off my EFIS except with the master switch, but could just as easily choose to never turn off the strobes and get the same effect.

[DCASonex]

All,
I am thinking of leaving the strobes on all the time - no switch, just a breaker. The thought would be an aid to remember the master switch. Any issues drawing 2A on the ground for strobes when alternator output is low?

Might depend on engine and its alternator. many do not charge at ground running RPMs. Also there may be times when just want to turn off that strobe. They are bright, and can be annoying. Toggle switch type breakers fill both roles.

I an avionics have a sub-master switch and when that is off the panel with its otherwise bright display on GRT Sport SX, goes dark, but master switch can still be on. Killed one battery that way. Fixed by adding a small 5 mm dia. 12 volt LED panel light from RS wired across that avionics master switch. the Sport SX, and other devices that are always on with that switch provide an adequate ground path to shine that LED as a nice bright reminder that master switch is on, but it turns off when avionics switch is turned on so as not to be a distraction when flying. No more dead batteries.

David A. Sonex TD

[Sonex1517]

All,
I am thinking of leaving the strobes on all the time - no switch, just a breaker. The thought would be an aid to remember the master switch. Any issues drawing 2A on the ground for strobes when alternator output is low?

Bryan

I wired my BeLite fuel gauge to be always on instead of strobes or a beacon. It is a low current draw, in my panel, and is basically an idiot light. I know to look at it when I close the canopy to ensure I did not leave the master on.

I also made a switch guard for my master with a hole on each side. I put my canopy latch pin in that hole. It does two things. It reduces the chance of the master being turned on by accident, and it reminds me the master is off. I know if the pin is in the switch is off. If the pin is out I need to check.


Robbie Culver
Sonex 1517
Chicagoland
N1517S

[Darick]

When its uncomfortably cold in my garage I work on the panel layout. My current wiring scheme is to use a keyed off/on switch for the master switch. So if I have the key in my pocket I know everything is off. So far I can't see a down side to this arrangement. Any thoughts on this?