Tailwheel rattle

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Tailwheel rattle

Postby billmaxmcw » Thu Aug 28, 2014 2:53 pm

Has anyone tried red silicone sealant between the titanium rod and the sleeves? Or the same places in the main gear legs?
Bill
Bill, Oregon
2012 Sonex taildragger (kit)
Aerovee 2.1, Aeroinjector
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby sonex892 » Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:21 pm

Using silicone would no doubt do the job, however it will make it really difficult to ever remove. for the tail spring I just wrapped insulation tape to make a tight fit and it has worked for 4 years now.

A friend used araldite epoxy on the tail spring. To remove just heat it up.

Steve
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby DCASonex » Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:53 am

Titanium rod tail spring was loose fit in both air-frame socket and tail wheel bracket. I wrapped mine in multiple layers of thin SS shim stock. First Ran reamer in holes to remove tight spots.

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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby billmaxmcw » Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:38 pm

On local advice, I put blue Loctite on the tailspring (both ends), plus the gear legs (both ends). I like the result.
BIll
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2012 Sonex taildragger (kit)
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby peter anson » Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:25 am

This might sound a bit odd but I used PR1422 fuel tank sealant at both ends of main gear legs and tail spring. It sets to a fairly hard rubber which has high shear strength but is also resilient. Spruce sell a similar product called AC-236 Class B which is described as "a two-component, manganese dioxide cured, liquid polysulfide polymer". Have done about 300 landings, not all expert and many on grass fields with no problems and nothing rattling around.
Loctite should also work fine but I think the best option would be a retaining compound that is capable of filling gaps. Loctite 660 can be used with up to 0.5 mm (0.020") clearance. If the fit is a bit better than that, types 641, 609 and 660 can be used with up to 0.25 mm clearance.
If you need to disassemble the joint you will have to heat it to above 150 C.
Peter
Sonex 894
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby kevinh » Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:23 pm

Hi Peter,

If you use loctite 660 to seal the gaps, how do you remove the tailwheel spring from the fuse if that becomes necessary? Heat the TI rod and rely on it to conduct heat into the fuse?

Kevin
Taildragger Waiex in progress, tail done, wings done, about to mate wings to fuse,
then cowl, canopy, paint (photos): flush rivets, turbo aerovee, acro ailerons
(I built my RV7A and happily flew it for about 500 hrs)
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby Bryan Cotton » Tue Apr 26, 2016 10:31 pm

I epoxied mine. If I have to replace it there will be surgery to do. It would involve cutting off the last 6-12" off the bottom skin and replacing it with a splice. A loose main or tail gear will definitely need work at some point. A bonded/bolted one may need work if you prang it.
Bryan Cotton
Poplar Grove, IL C77
Waiex 191 N191YX
Taildragger, Aerovee, acro ailerons
dual sticks with sport trainer controls
Prebuilt spars and machined angle kit
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby peter anson » Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:37 am

If you use loctite 660 to seal the gaps, how do you remove the tailwheel spring from the fuse if that becomes necessary? Heat the TI rod and rely on it to conduct heat into the fuse?

I think that would work. I don't think 200 C is going to harm the titanium but it should burn out the loctite, but the only reason you are likely to need to remove the spring is because the bracket has broken, and in that case, breaking the loctite bond is not a problem because you have to remove the whole thing from the aircraft anyway. I have done that particular task and it's fiddly, but not too bad.

Peter
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby kevinh » Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:22 pm

thanks guys!
Taildragger Waiex in progress, tail done, wings done, about to mate wings to fuse,
then cowl, canopy, paint (photos): flush rivets, turbo aerovee, acro ailerons
(I built my RV7A and happily flew it for about 500 hrs)
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Re: Tailwheel rattle

Postby mike.smith » Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:54 pm

I used some thin Teflon sheet material as shims. So far so good after 2 years, though I'm sure it can and will get compressed at some point and need replacement.
Mike Smith
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