On a quest for the elusive "Dry AeroVee"

[Onex107]

Oil filters have become a standard attachment. But-- my experiance with my O-200 powered Cessna 150 which did not have a filter convinced me that oil analysis is better than the visual paper filter. By the time the filtered material is big enough to see the failure has happened. The Cessna was a 1965 model E with almost 5000 hours total on the engine. I had it overhauled at 2200 hours and the crank shaft and cam were not replaced or reground. I put 1600 hours on that engine without a problem. The screen never showed more than small bits of carbon. Oil analysis and changes every 25 hours is a history of the engine in ppm (parts per million).

[Jgibson]

That's because the screen has a micron rating of 50+ whereas a good paper filter has a 25 micron or better rating.
But even when a screen catches debris, you have to examine it with a 10x magnifier and magnet to actually see what that debris consists of.
The 'failures' you see aren't the problem because whether you see them or not, the damage is already beginning and nothing you do can reverse that. Whether it's a filter or oil analysis, both are simply giving you a heads up to damage that's already beginning. The analysis gives better insight into WHAT the wear material is so you can make a better informed decision on exactly WHAT is wearing out.
I've always used the 25 hour oil and filter or oil and screen schedules but a paper filter will indicate 'issues' much sooner than a screen. Eventually that screen will show metal, but either way you're not going to reverse what is going on. Either will catch the odd debris such as silicone (an absolute no no on these engines) or pieces of paper towels, etc.
Screens do the job but just not as efficiently as a modern 'quality' paper filter. And if you got another 1600 hours out of an already 2200 hour cam on an 0-200, than you are extremely fortunate but that's certainly not the normal case. I've owned many of the small Continentals and have rebuilt and serviced hundreds. The cases wear (as there are no cam bearings) and eventually the cam moves around enough to start wearing itself and the lifters.
Small bits of carbon are exactly what you should see in either a filter or screen. Occasionally you'll get a small fleck of aluminum from a piece of case flashing but it's nothing serious. Steel is either cam, crank, gears, oil pump gears. Bronze is bushing material from rods, rockers, main bearings.

Joe

[Onex107]

Yes Joe, but the O-200 has a magnesium rear case and you can't identify that with a magnet. You can't see ppm with a magnifying glass and the trending increase in the element will be apparent long before the filter can trap it. At least, with the Aerovee magnesium case, you can differentiate between the case and the aluminum parts. Not possible with a paper filter. The cost is about the same.

[Bryan Cotton]

The last time I added oil, I overfilled it a little bit. Now I'm at 5.6 hours of flight time, plus some ground run time, and I'm about midway in the safe range. So I've not had to add oil in 5.6 hours. That is a huge improvement. I need to clean the belly again so I can see if the oil loss is stabilizing at this oil level.

[Bryan Cotton]

Been there, done that.
Your oil lines need to be 8AN. Your oil filter needs to be Wix 5151R or equivalent. You need to tap your block for full flow return. I did it with engine installed on the Xenos. You need the Gene Berg oil pump cover with pressure relief valve built in.

Bill,
Can you share pics, part numbers, etc? I need to do this. Blew out another filter on startup.

I'll PM you. If you want to email me directly my gmail address is my first name, last name, and 3 digit serial number appended together. That's all in my signature.

[Bryan Cotton]

Is this the right Gene Berg cover for the Aerovee?
http://www.geneberg.com/product_info.ph ... cts_id=320

What pump do I need? Either the Sonex standard pump like this:
https://www.sonexaircraft.com/eshop/car ... g=oil+pump

Or a CB performance pump? 26 or 30mm gears?

What plug do you use to block off the oil pump output?

[bvolcko38]

I'm having trouble remembering. You already have the pump for full flow,correct? Then you are all set there. Read the tech articles on the Berg website re full flow. That oil pump cover looks right. I ended up removing a welch plug and tapping the hole for a 90 degree fitting for return from the filter. Per Berg. All hunky dory since.

[Bryan Cotton]

My pump has an inlet and an outlet in the cover. It is the stock pump for a bottom mount oil cooler. So I can't use a pressure relief cover. I think I need a less fancy pump so I can do a real full flow setup.

[bvolcko38]

It's been a few years and I've read so many articles...
I've read that you can tap and plug the return hole in your pump. I would just buy the correct pump. Read all you can about full flow.

[Bryan Cotton]

I found this video - an odd character and doesn't stay focused on the business, but he has this clever idea of hooking his air compressor up to the oil pressure sender port to blow out chips.
https://youtu.be/U6Cu7AerLNY?t=396

So I'm thinking a Gene Berg 239 relief cover, and a GB 233A 26mm pump plugged for full flow.