Aeromomentum engines

[n307tw]

Unfortunately my wiring schematic is a mess of drawings and mark-ups on the Garmin manual. I highly suggest you look into downloading the Garmin G3X installation manual (here). More specifically focus on looking through sections 26, 30, 33, and 34. That will give you the schematics and the foundation for wiring and programming the G3X for your needs.

I wonder if it would be feasable to also add some kind of warning light for low gear oil

I do not believe a sensor to monitor the gear oil amount is feasible at all. There is a sight glass to observe the level of fluid during pre-flight. Of course monitoring oil temperature is the best route because if it is getting too hot, there may be a leak or secondary issue going on. I simply replaced one of the plugs with a 1/4-17 MNPT - 1/8-27 FNPT fitting and a simple single wire VDO 323057 temperature sensor screwed into that (this is the same sensor used on Rotax 912/914 engines). I am using that same sensor for the oil temperature as well. For Manifold Pressure Sensor/Fuel Pressure Sensor/Oil Pressure Sensor I am using the three wire Kavlico sensors recommended by Garmin, click links for prices, SteinAir tends to have them cheaper than ACS. The fuel return is a Red Cube FT-60. The fuel supply I bought new old stock at Oshkosh 2019 for very cheap and it is a Floscan 201 (if I were you and you want to monitor fuel flow, I would just buy two red cubes - much cheaper). The ammeter shunts are the Garmin recommended 100amp kind and also cheapest through SteinAir.

When you get to the point where you are doing the wiring, SteinAir has the best prices for mil-spec wire, Garmin termination kits, and connectors. Just some food for thought. Good luck and let me know if you need anything else.

[lakespookie]

I am a ways away from wiring but the plan is to wire up per the garmin specifications and thanks for the tip on steinair i do have the garmin manuals downloaded. I have a plan for the wiring and a basic schematic but engine sensors are still the up in the air question.

[lakespookie]

Tim I know you bought the ground ajustable prop for your bird, But did you consider the airmaster prop? I am thinking i might be able to get away with less induced drag and potentially a 3 blade over a 4 blade by going ajustable.

[n307tw]

Video is up on YouTube on my Aeromomentum AM15h install so far on my tri-gear B-Model. Includes a brief view of my panel and how to start the engine and its operation. More videos coming as the build progresses.




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[BRS]

Very nice. Thanks for the video.

[lakespookie]

Video is up on YouTube on my Aeromomentum AM15h install so far on my tri-gear B-Model. Includes a brief view of my panel and how to start the engine and its operation. More videos coming as the build progresses.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

have you gotten your prop yet?

Also if you dont mind sharing could you give me a rough estimate on total installed cost.

[n307tw]

Hello All!

I am sorry but it has been a while since I have posted. All is well with the Aeromomentum AM15h! In July I was working on refurbishing an old hangar and finally moved the Sonex out there. Very happy that the BadAss-B has a new home to live in. I still have not received my propeller and that is no fault of Mark or Aeromomentum. In fact Mark has gone out of his way to communicate with the manufacturer and also offer insight as to other options. I originally ordered a 4-bladed 60" Propeller from Luga in January. Luga is based in the Ukraine and are citing Covid-19 as well as domestic problems within the country for the delay. I understand that but at the same time it has limited my ability to really ground test the plane and engine. Granted, I still have several more items to complete on the plane but I am anxious to taxi her around the airport. In the meantime I decided to order a 3-bladed 62" propeller with nickel leading edges from Warp Drive since we really can't be sure when/if this Luga prop will ever arrive. For the HP the engine puts out as well as the geared-drive, others have used this same Warp propeller on Rotax 914 as well as the Vikings.

The big issue with any Tri-Gear Sonex and this engine choice is the ground clearance to the tip of the prop. With the standard tri-gear front fork provided by Sonex I measured it as being a 6" clearance with the 60" prop and 5" clearance with the 62" prop. The FAA dictates that there must be a minimum of 7" for a tri-gear and 9" clearance for a tail dragger. I am not sure, but I don't think being in the experimental category foregoes this requirement, and honestly it is probably best practice as well to follow these minimum requirements.

FAR 14 § 25.925 Propeller clearance.
Unless smaller clearances are substantiated, propeller clearances with the airplane at maximum weight, with the most adverse center of gravity, and with the propeller in the most adverse pitch position, may not be less than the following:

(a) Ground clearance. There must be a clearance of at least seven inches (for each airplane with nose wheel landing gear) or nine inches (for each airplane with tail wheel landing gear) between each propeller and the ground with the landing gear statically deflected and in the level takeoff, or taxiing attitude, whichever is most critical. In addition, there must be positive clearance between the propeller and the ground when in the level takeoff attitude with the critical tire(s) completely deflated and the corresponding landing gear strut bottomed.

In order to combat this slight ground clearance issue I decided to modify the front fork of my Model-B. This can technically be done with any Sonex model but I am absolutely sure the factory will not look too kindly on this post. The first step that I did was cut the forks off of the gear leg.


Then I took a 1/4" thick piece of high strength steel cut to 4"x4" and had it welded to the remaining portion of the fork/gear leg. Small gussets were added perpindicular to the airstream so that there wouldn't be any additional induced drag.


I primed and spray painted this new mount glossy black. I then mounted a Zenith CH-701 front fork onto this larger mount with AN4 hardware and painted that as well to match.



I then mounted the Zenith axle and drilled additional holes so that the wheel could be moved up or down. It worked out great and allows me to use a 5.00-5 tire on the front as well. The new larger tire is a drastic difference from the smaller Chinese tire that originally was meant for the plane.


Final product and sitting in the newly refurbished hangar.


Let me know what you think about this mod...good/bad/indifferent, I like constructive feedback.

[Bryan Cotton]

Nice workmanship, but looks heavy. Weight is the enemy. Maybe tailwheel would have been the way to go with this engine. I guess that would bring its own challenges as you would still want prop clearance at a level attitude on the ground.

[n307tw]

I totally agree. It indeed looks heavy but the original forks on the gear leg were steel and the Zenith fork I added is aluminum. A net gain of less than 5 pounds, I should have put that in the above post. Every pound adds up but necessary in this case. If I switch out the Odyssey battery for an EarthX it will reduce my FWF weight. Still debating that.

I think the tailwheel guys could extend their front gear several inches without a terrible result and gain the clearance they would need for a larger prop. The FAA rule says 9" clearance and I think that with this engine they would have that without doing any modifications.

[Bryan Cotton]

I went with an EarthX. I still ended up at 674 lbs, too heavy in my opinion. Now I understand why you used bolts, I didn't realize the fork was aluminum.

Since you can weld, why not just re-fabricate the gear? Or weld in a tube section to make it taller?

With a tailwheel, as you lengthen the gear, you are also changing the balance point. Maybe it would be fine, but something that would need to be considered.