Hi, Mike:
My suggestions are more broad than specific, and you've probably heard them all, but since I had high CHT/EGT problems (similar to yours, but the spread was not quite as much -- #1 was very, very hot; #3 was hot but not quite as bad. #2 & #4 were OK) early this year and solved them, I'll just throw out what I did. Until I got it sorted out I could only climb at 150-200 fpm to have any hope of keeping the rear cylinder temps in check.
First, my cylinders ALWAYS have different mixtures. I've taken the heads off several times and the front of the heads (2 & 4 cylinders) are much blacker (richer) than the tan colored (leaner) rear cylinder heads. But my engine purrs like a kitten right now, regardless. Instead of the scientific method of changing only one thing at a time, I changed lots of things at once and solved my issues. I can send you pictures of my heads if you'd like.
1. I have a bottom mounted oil cooler. I closed off most of the intake in the cowl by adding a blank off plate over most of the opening. Even in the dead of summer the oil temps this past summer didn't go over 190 or so, and so I could blank off even more. I think the excess air coming into the cowl from that inlet, was helping to positively pressurize the cowl and not let it dump heat overboard.
2. I increased the lower exit air opening in my cowl by 20%. I think that was the single biggest factor in dropping my temps.
3. I retarded the secondary ignition. The only way to check the RPM and temperature spread is in flight. It is totally unreliable to do it on the ground. In the air I first noticed an RPM difference between primary and secondary, of over 100 rpm. I would get on the ground, retard the ignition and go fly again. RPMs would be better, but still 50 RPM or more difference, and high temps. After doing this a few times I finally got the difference in RPMs in flight to be nothing or in the single digits.
4. I swore up and down that I had the mixture arm at the AeroInjector adjusted properly, and checked it many times. I got the proper RPM increase when pulling the mixture back. But I suspected I still was not getting the mixture to actual full rich. I readjusted the cable and the arm to give more throw (arm goes somewhat beyond the 45 deg called for in the manual). I saw measurable improvement in the evenness of the mixture and the engine operation during flight, and I START UP and TAKE OFF with the mixture pulled about 1/2" out. I have seemingly infinite mixture adjustments now, whether the OAT is cold or hot.
5. I've always had the big K&N (re-useable) air filter, and don't know how an AeroVee can breath with anything smaller. I had to build a blister into the bottom of my cowl to clear the filter.
6. Too much oil. I followed the AeroVee installation instructions for filling the oil and marking the dipstick. But when I'm running with my oil AT the "full" line I feel like the engine is bogging down slightly. RPMs can be 50 RPMs lower, and temps will sometimes run a bit warmer. So I routinely run with my oil level slightly below the "full" line.
A few other thoughts:
A. Is your needle installed with the flat side facing up, toward the engine?
B. Is the AeroInjector aligned perfectly parallel with the engine center line?
C. And of course your engine will certainly run hot while breaking in again.
D. Is the mixture arm set screw secure?
E. Are the throttle and mixture cables SECURED so that the cable housings do not move when the mixture or throttle are manipulated? I had a sudden loss of power at altitude one time because I had not secured the bracket I had made, after doing some engine servicing. Bracket seen in the center and lower photos:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 53&row=120None of this may be helpful, but it's all I've got.