The Tool Shed (s/n 1013 rebuild)

[jrs]

I'm very interested in what you are doing and appreciate all of the pictures. Have you selected the actuators for the other controls ?

[Rick524]

I installed the same flap actuator a few months ago, I'm interested to see how you did yours. I also have the hat switch on the
stick. I just use the up and down contacts to drive 2 dpdt relays mounted under the seat. Relays I used are Magnetcraft
#92S11D22D-12 or dpst relay #92S7D22D-12 will also work. Im not sure how much current the hat switch can handle and wanted to use #22 wire to provide switching voltage to the relay coils.

For flap position readout on my Enigma I used a Ray Allen POS12, which goes to an I/O extender, then to the Enigma.

One thing I didn't do yet, but will, when it warms up, is cotter pin the actuator rod fork end. The threads don't seem that great.
If that came off in flight the flaps would......flap.

Rick
C-GRIX

[BRS]

I installed the same flap actuator a few months ago,...

Do you have a pic?

Magnetcraft #92S11D22D-12 or dpst relay #92S7D22D-12

Always helpful when part numbers are listed

not sure how much current the hat switch can handle and wanted to use #22 wire to provide switching voltage to the relay coils.

Yes, same reason I didn't try to not use a relay. Though the temptation was there.

For flap position readout on my Enigma I used a Ray Allen POS12, which goes to an I/O extender, then to the Enigma.

I'm actually quite interested in this. I have the RayAllen POS12 as well (not yet installed) but was thinking of using the RP4 indicators since I really didn't want to install the I/O extender. Do you really recommend the I/O extender? I need to indicate the elevator trim as well.

One thing I didn't do yet, but will, when it warms up, is cotter pin the actuator rod fork end.

I had wondered about that. Though the actuator is rated at 150lbs I don't know how much force is actually on it. Naturally, more force since I shortened up the arm (lever) length.

[Rick524]

No pictures, sorry, but its exactly as shown in the thread by 'jowens' in the 'electric flaps' thread. My actuator is on the left
side, not in the center like yours.

My I/O extender was already installed and provides current sensing for the ammeter readout on the Enigma. The only other thing
it does is the flap position. Its under utilized in my plane and I'm not sure they are available any more. Probably not worth the trouble of putting one in for just a single use, but if you have a few more inputs, (canopy lock, elevator trim, aux fuel level) then by all means do it! It looks good on the display!

In regards to the actuator rod end, the good thing is, the flaps will always be pushing against the actuator, rather than pulling. I think the rod end would be more inclined to come off with a pulling force, but drilling a hole thru it and cotter pinning eliminates any concerns.

Good luck with your project! It looks like fun!

Rick
C-GRIX

[Josonex]

Thanks BRS! Great pics. Starting center stick project this weekend.

[BRS]

The Ace Hardware brass ball valve that was on my sonex was ok I guess but it's not quite the quality I want on my plane. Especially since it is something that is used every flight. Also the control rod activating the valve was designed in such a way that when you pull or push it, the valve fitting needs to hold the valve still while the lever is turned. Finally, using a rigid control 'rod' limits the location of that control. Sorry I don't have a picture of the old installation but I suspect many here have seen it an understand what I'm saying.

Anyway, I have several of these Holly UltraPro ball valves on another plane and really like them. They are a bit expensive but work well.

www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/valves/ultrapro_ball_valves/

The black part on the side is meant to be a mount to fix the ball valve onto something. But in my case I used it to fix the bowden cable conduit. It just uses the existing four end plate screws to attach to the valve.

Here is a short video of it in action
https://youtu.be/9Mg_QJ9enko

[BRS]

Electric Elevator (Aileron too) Trim

To be honest, the manual trim was not in the way for my conversion to single (center) control stick. I just wanted electric trim as it cleans things up a bit. Well actually there is an ergonomic reason for going electric. The manual trim on the left side wall is too far from the center seating to be comfortable. It's a minor point but is the best justification I have. Well that, and all that unused real-estate on top of most control sticks begging to be used. Also gives my right thumb something to do, playing with all those switches (trim, smoke, flaps). I think my thumb is starting to get a superiority complex with all it's new responsibilities.

There is also a slight aerodynamic reason to go with electric trim. The picture below shows the unmodified elevator trim tab. On the right side can be seen how the trim control horn was bent to mimic the angle of the elevator. While this looks cool it actually is bending it into the airstream causing drag and a small amount of trim deflection. Drives me nuts to see this, its gotta go.

The servo hole is located as close to the elevator hinge as practical. I did this for structural reasons as well as to limit the balance effect of a few extra ounces. The cutout is basically as small as I could possibly make it and still insert the servo. By keeping things tight a cover plate will not be needed.

Click the Picture to see the entire elevator horn.

The wire comes out through a rubber grommet near the hinge and disappears into the fuselage where the elevator cross-tube (my name for the part) passes in front of the rudder. Important: Don't pull the old bowden cable out right away. It is needed to pull the wire through the fuselage. So carefully attach the wire to the cable upon it's removal.

The trickiest part was figuring out where to cut the hole for the connecting rod. You are on your own here. I managed it with a bit of math as well as eye-balling it. It turned out nicely. The connecting rod is just a length of threaded rod which needs to be cut (shortened) to length.

Click to see entire image.

Because the servo fit was so tight I had to install it without the threaded rod. Afterward the rod was installed in screwed into place through the small oval opening. Tricky but a workable solution.

RayAllen (RA) has a clever little chart that will help you make the new trim control horn. The servo travel and control horn must match in order to give the correct amount of trim deflection. Here are the parts I useed.

RA T2-7A Servo 0.7" travel
RA RC8-7 Clevis/Pushrod Kit
RA WC3 ... 5 WIRE TEFLON® INSTALLATION CABLE
http://rayallencompany.com/RACmedia/tri ... mputer.pdf

Aileron trim tab will be done the exact same way as the elevator trim tab.

[BRS]

Recently the conversion to electric elevator trim was completed. Since the RayAllen control stick trim 'hat' has R/L as well as U/D I decided to install electric aileron trim as well. Below are some pictures. Keeping as simple as possible, the RA servos (both elevator & aileron) were mounted with the flange on the outside of the control surface. A very small amount of RTV was placed on the servo flange prior to squeezing the aluminum rivets. There are thin doubler strips inside the control surface to provide more grip for the rivets.

[Scott Todd]

Nicely done :) I like the rivets. People always tell me I should have added nut plates in these cases. My answer is "I can drill those rivets out twenty times for the time it takes to add nut plates. Chances are I'll never do it more than once."

[BRS]

The Tool Shed renovation is making slow but steady progress. Much to my disappointment, efforts to remedy the poorly fitted canopy necessitated the removal of the plexi, straightening the frame then ordering a new plexi canopy (shipping cost more than the replacement). The up-side is that things are going together well after much pain-staking fitting. I hope to finish it up next week.

RevMaster has finally finished my engine and should be shipping it very soon. Looking forward to receiving it - the final piece of the puzzle. This leads me to my question...

Q. I see many sonex's have vertical side cooling vents (mine does not). was this a later change or was it incorporated with only certain engines? With the R2300 soon on it's way no doubt I'll be working on the cowl some and it would be nice to have all the information possible when planning things out.

Thanks.