Camguard

[Bryan Cotton]

I just ordered my first jug of Valvoline VR1 20W50 from Amazon. It is funny how many of the reviews say "this is perfect for my classic VW bug!"

[GraemeSmith]

I actually did have a follow up out to Ed along the lines of:

"So what oil would YOU use in the VW Type III engine as we are using it in the aviation environment"

His interesting response was:

I would probably use a 15W-40 diesel oil like Shell Rotella

Don't think I'll try that yet!

He did say that the Valvoline or Brad-Penn fortified with Camguard - would improve them to a point he would be more comfortable.

--

To the point about Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 replacing a bike oil in Rotax engines - he was very enthusiastic. He didn't have much good to say about the previous bike oil!

[bvolcko38]

My thoughts exactly. Diesel oil is high in zinc and detergents.

[WesRagle]

Ed Kollin wrote:
I would probably use a 15W-40 diesel oil like Shell Rotella


Don't think I'll try that yet!

Lots of advice when it comes to engine oil :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvN83Xb2xy8

Wes

[Rofomoto]

Covair uses Rotella 15-40. With ZDDP addictive exclusively. Billy

[GraemeSmith]

First results after 25 hours on Valvoline VR 1 with Automotive CamGuard

ALL metals are down 25%-30% on the oil analysis @ 391 hours TT
Compressions measured at the end of 25 hours on Camguard 78/78/78/78 (From 72/74/78/76 - 25 hours before @ 366 hours)

Disclosure - Ed Kollin of ASEL Camguard is assisting with advice and 4 free samples to be used over the 100 hours.

[BRS]

Graeme,
What fuel are you using? As mentioned earlier (about TCP) lead from 100LL likes to settle out of most automotive oils (is that true with the VR1?). I remember running a rotax 914 where lead settling was noticeable. Nice thing for rotax is that the remote oil sump is easy to open up and clean out. In my Lyc (sportsman) I run Phillips XC and 100LL. But in the sonex (still under renovation) I've not yet decided what I'll run in the revmaster. I'm not a fan of ethanol and 'clear' is not much cheaper than 100LL.

[GraemeSmith]

Graeme,
What fuel are you using? As mentioned earlier (about TCP) lead from 100LL likes to settle out of most automotive oils (is that true with the VR1?). I remember running a rotax 914 where lead settling was noticeable. Nice thing for rotax is that the remote oil sump is easy to open up and clean out. In my Lyc (sportsman) I run Phillips XC and 100LL. But in the sonex (still under renovation) I've not yet decided what I'll run in the revmaster. I'm not a fan of ethanol and 'clear' is not much cheaper than 100LL.

100LL - the only way I can get the octane required around here for the 8:1 compression my builder set up.

I run Decalin TCP in the fuel to try and get as much lead out the exhaust as possible. The plugs are whistle clean at 100 hours when I chuck them anyways as they are cheap enough.

I use mineral based VR1 - not the synthetic based - so it doesn't tend to sludge in the engine. In fact from past experience. Synthetic and 100LL is a passage killing sludgeathon. Ask Mobil if you were around in the day when they tried it and then paid for a lot of engine rebuilds.

I removed the "in sump" oil screen and have a Petersen High Flow 60 micron filter with cleanable element on the front of the engine below the oil cooler air scoop. The holder has some pretty "thick" goo in it towards 25 hours - but it is not gray sludge yet. I vacuum the hot oil out from the low point of the engine sump where I fitted a quick drain so I don't have to keep dropping the oil cooler air scoop. A pint of mineral spirit into the empty engine and vacuum that out. Then Button up and refill. So I only drop the sump every 100 hours and it's clean.

One thing that Ed Kollin mentioned was Camguard's ability to help get lead sludge out. It doesn't show in my oil numbers. I suspect the Decalin has been doing it's job there. So jury still out on that one.

[GraemeSmith]

So just to follow up on another oil report just in, where the metals are down to tiny levels. Blackstone's summary is:

The last sample looked uncharacteristically good, with most metals reading at some of their lowest levels on the page. That makes for a tough act to follow because metals can't always read at their lowest levels, otherwise at some point the engine would have to start putting metals back on the parts. So this report looks fine. The wear levels are certainly out of line low compared to what we've generally come to expect from this particular engine. No contamination was found. Looks fine from here.

This is in line with Ed Kollins of ASEL's prediction that after a couple of oil changes with Camguard metals would drop significantly.

Fingers crossed for the next report.

[n502pd]

Has anyone who has been using VR-1 20/50 non synth oil in their engine encountered sludge build up? And has anyone had any adverse effects of using additive with high zinc with the VR-1, or with the Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 racing oil? Lastly, is the VR-1 oil causing sludge, where the Brad Penn oil dosent, while using 100LL? Thanks for any insight/info!

Joe