Empenage fairing by “Aerocrafters”

[N21X]

Im about to start on a custom fiberglass empenage fairing, but recently came across Aerocrafters in ALABAMA. Does anyone have info on them or the fairing?

[racaldwell]

Sorry, I don't know about them but I just finished making the empenage fairing for my Xenos. It is carbon + S-glass/epoxy and extends down under the stabilizers. I did that for my RV6 and wanted to do the same so I did. I can send a picture if you like. It is not difficult to make yourself. I can tell you my method if you want to go that way and enjoy making composite parts like I do.

Today just finished, hopefully for the last time, adding epoxy to fair out the lower intersection fairings I made to fit the TOB axles and Vans wheelpants. They came out good.

Rick Caldwell
Xenos 0057

[Carlos Trigo]

Rick

I could also use a picture of your fairing, and a description of your method to make composite parts.

Thanks
Carlos

[racaldwell]

Carlos, I made the form with modeling clay. I had to make a support for the clay and made a crude fiberglass layup on a semi fitted form of foam sheet and plastic to cover the open fuselage area between the stabilizers. This fiberglass form was taped in place and lots of clay was put down on it and then the clay was scraped into shape with a long straight edge ( my 4 ft aluminum measuring stick.) Once the clay closely followed the turtledeck line, I laid down some plastic tape on the clay then brushed PVA mold release onto the tape. The clay also formed the radius around and under the stabilizers. This was not taped but brushed with PVA.

Some West 407 fairing filler was brushed onto the form before the cloth so there would be no place for air to be trapped and make a smooth surface to be in contact with the airplane. The layup was two plies of 6 oz. BID carbon for the main fuselage area ( because I had some scrap and to make the large open area stiff.) S-glass tapes cut on the 45 were used on all edges and around the stabilizers. There are about five plies around the edges except for the turtledeck overlap. The last cloth layup was a very lightweight satin cloth which just soaks up the resin from below and helps cover the coarser weave underneath. More 407 filler is put on after the cloth is wetted out.

Once cured, it is removed, trimmed and sanded. More 407 and/or 410 filler is added and sanded until all is faired and no pin holes (yea, right.) Final sanding is with 400 grit then epoxy primed. Of course some pin holes will appear after priming. If just a few, which was my case on this one, I filled with automotive spot putty, sanded off excess and reprimed.

I have one screw with nutplate on each side under the stabilizer in front and one screw (all #6) on each side at the rear to hold on the fairing. My fairing is on the outside of the turtledeck (like my RV6) and not underneath like a Sonex.

That's about all there is to it.

Rick Caldwell
Xenos 0057

Clay modeling form

Carbon wet layup

S-glass wet layup

Going with the filler and sanding process

Test fit

[Mike53]

Not to put a damper on how your making your fairing but it seems like a lot of work and messy to boot.. It can easily be accomplished with a brake and a hand seamer.
Go to near the end of this page to see the result. http://www.onexmike.org/tail-installation-onx-t01.html

Gentle bends without making a crease is the key.
Just a thought.
Cheers
Mike