Fist part - flaps

[dbdevkc]

I am ready to start on my Waiex kit and figured I would start with something
simple - so I chose the flaps. Already a couple of questions.

- The rib flanges are not quite bent exactly 90 degrees. I assume I need to
tweak those to make the flange 90 degrees from the rib face.

- The inboard end of the flaps show a cut of the skin that I am not entirely
confident I understand correctly - does anyone have a photo of a completed flap
showing that inboard end?

- When drilling - I assume I will be measuring and drilling pilot holes in the
skin first, then fitting the ribs and drilling through. That being the case, how
do you clamp the rib in place to drill?

- More general question - when I am working on sub-assemblies that have pilot
holes already, I assume I am up-drilling in steps as necessary (i.e.: #40 -
cleco, then #30, then disassemble, debur, assemble, rivet).

Thanks,
Kevin (nervous about that first step)
Waiex 169

[MichaelFarley56]

I'll answer as best as I can but unfortunately I don't have any pictures of my flaps. If it helps the flaps are the same on Sonexes so feel free to look at anyone's websites for help...

On the ribs, go ahead and adjust the ribs so they're at a 90 degree angle and while you're at it, grab a sharpie and mark a centerline down each outer flange. You'll need it later...

Go ahead and cut out the flap itself. Most people use the cutting shears but use what you're comfortable with. Mark and drill all the #40 (3/32) pilot holes and then arrange the inner rib so your sharpie line can be seen through the pilot holes. When I did mine, I started with the small side and squeezed the flap down by hand to hold the rib in place. Once you drill the first hole cleco it in place and then push the rib around so as you drill each hole at #40 you can see your sharpie line. Once everything is drilled, up drill to #30, then deburr everything, prime if you want, reassemble with clecos, and rivet.

While I don't have a picture of my flaps handy, the confusion ( I think) is that you need to cut a "notch" where the pushrod attach point doubler passes through. In fact, I would recommend you start with those so you can see where things need cut out.

Take a deep breath, relax, make sure you measure three times, and have fun building!! Good luck!

[dbdevkc]

Follow-up: Once I saw a picture of a cut flap I was able to confirm what I understood from the plans. I was able to measure, mark and cut the first flap.

One thing though - the cut is not a perfectly straight line (very close, just not "absolutely perfect"). How precisely straight doe it need to be?

Kevin
Waiex 169

[Andy Walker]

Hey Kevin,

On most of the control surfaces, they really just need to be straight enough to "look" straight, and to mate well with whatever the surrounding parts are. Anything more is aesthetic (though straighter is better, of course). When I'm making these cuts I usually cut *close* to the line, but leave a little extra metal. Then I approach the line with files, sandpaper, and medium & fine Scotch-Brite pads. You can use the edge of a straight edge (hold the flat of the ruler parallel to the skin on the edge so no ruler flex fools you) to confirm straightness. Then you can see any high/low spots and spot sand as necessary to get as straight as possible. If that's not clear let me know and I'll post a pic of what I'm talking about.

[Sonex1517]

Kevin

While I cannot see your cut, I will tell you something we have been reminding ourselves since we began.

When I went to an EAA builders course in 2002, one of the instructors, Jack Dueck, told me to remember that I am building an airplane, not a swiss watch.

It's been good to remind myself of that. Daily. :-)

Andy posts great advice - I expect you're doing fine.

Robbie

[dbdevkc]

I think I may take a large sheet of sand paper and staple it around the edge side of a 2x4, then run that back and forth along the length of the cut just to get it as close to straight as possible. Will post pictures to my blog tonight.

Thanks!
Kevin

[Mike53]

Kevin I have no idea how many parts you will have to do this to but if it is a lot you might consider using a small laminate trim router if you have a variable speed one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AN ... 0F5HJ5VE3Y and a cutter like this one http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5994-alumin ... -bits.aspx You can probably find cheaper ones, this was the first one I ran across on google.
You still cut your aluminum the same way you would have with snips or what ever you use but you can be more quick about it as long as you stay within 1/8" of the cut line and never touch it .It doesn't matter how wavy it is. Once done you clamp a wood straight edge exactly on the cut line and the bearing on the cutter will follow the template and produce a perfectly straight cut in seconds.The key is being able to slow the router speed down and use a cutting fluid ( I have used transmission fluid because its cheap)but I don't think it's absolutely required but your cutter will remain sharper longer and wont clog as easily.You can use it to produce curved parts as well and would save oodles(love that word)of time if you have multiple curved parts to make.You just have to make one template .It will not work for parts too small or skinny to clamp properlyRobbie is probably right ,they don't have to be perfect ,but this method will give you perfection and save time as a bonus for parts that are big enough.I have used this to make jigs out of aluminum for my woodworking.
I can't follow a straight line with a pair of snips if my life depended on it so I have adapted my own methods.As a result I have a lot of power tools.My wife just thinks I'm addicted to them. :x
Have fun.
Mike

[dbdevkc]

New one - how do we debur the inside surface of the holes we just drilled in the skin for the ribs - especially the ones near the trailing edge?

[Andy Walker]

New one - how do we debur the inside surface of the holes we just drilled in the skin for the ribs - especially the ones near the trailing edge?

Look at Wick's website for a tool called "Burr-Away". It fits on a drill and you poke it through the hole and it will deburr the backside. Works great for the holes inside channel pieces too. It's pricey ($60+!!!), but well worth it, IMO.