Onex Wings

[WesRagle]

Hi Guys,
I finished the wing fold mechanism on the left wing. I had to shim the attach angle on the paddle rib by 0.032 on this wing. In both cases the shim was just enough to allow the rear spar channel to clear the plate on the "paddle rib".



For the factory built spars, there is nothing that can be done on the main spar. The holes are already drilled to full size. So, if anything is to be adjusted it will happen at the rear spar. I did have some issues at the rear spar of the left wing. With the wing "relaxed" there was significant misalignment between the inboard and outboard pinning holes. I couldn't just up-drill from 1/4 to 3/8 and cover the misalignment. For things to come out right I had to "split the difference" and bring the top hole down 1/16 and the bottom hole up 1/16. That required some filing and fooling around before drilling/reaming, but in the end it turned out all right. BTW, to answer my own silly question, the holes in the rear spar are drilled square to the spar, not at a slant.

Here is a pic of all the "Monkey Business" on the left wing.



So, it's on to rigging the ailerons. I mounted the aileron to the right wing and attached the short aileron push rod to the pivot plate and the aileron. I have a slight interference problem between the push rod and the wing spar.



Anybody else have this problem? Is there an easy solution?

Thanks for Your Time,

Wes

[dirkverdonck]

Hi Wes,
Had the same issue a while ago and solved it before skinning! see pics.
Enjoy the build and a Happy New Year,

[lgsievila]

Hi Wes,
The interference problem has been around since the beginning. I posted a picture of the drawing on Mykitlog website on 04/17/2012 where I showed material that had to be removed for push rod clearance.

[WesRagle]

Hi Wes,
Had the same issue a while ago and solved it before skinning! see pics.
Enjoy the build and a Happy New Year,

Hi Dirk. Thanks for the pics. Glad to know it's not just me :-) Happy New Year to you as well!! I am enjoying the build and hope to have the plane ready for inspection by March. We'll see.

Hi Wes,
The interference problem has been around since the beginning. I posted a picture of the drawing on Mykitlog website on 04/17/2012 where I showed material that had to be removed for push rod clearance.

Hi Loren,

I googled and found your build log and the relevant pics. I also bookmarked the log for future reference. Thanks a lot (again).

I wish I had known about this a year and a half ago :-)

Anyway, It's not too bad. I managed to get a die grinder and a burr in the wing. The air hose through the aft lightening hole, my hand through the third lightening hole, and look inside through the inspection hole. Removed the material with the burr, cleaned up with a small flapper on the die grinder, and finished up with some scotch bright.




Thanks for all the help. I do appreciate it.

Forever Forward,

Wes

[WesRagle]

Hi Guys,

Well, I pulled out the swivel set screws and they were all rusted. I was able to get the ball in two of the screws to rotate but the other two were hopeless. Probably best to just get new ones. I'll check with the factory Monday to see what the situation is. Meanwhile I googled a little and came up with these: https://www.nbk1560.com/en-US/products/machine_element/screw/SCSS-R(INCH)/. They are available in steel and stainless. Haven't checked delivery.

Meanwhile, under the heading of "It all counts", I decided to go ahead and work on the fairings. There was a slight interference with the short aileron push rod and the bottom skin so I elongated the holes by 3/8". Nibbled most of it out and finished with a dremel sand drum and scotch bright.



Made the push rod fairings and fitted the push rod and counterweight fairings. I'm using the same counter weight fairing that is used on the Sub-Sonex. That'll make me go faster :-)



Started making all the inspection plates. I'll finish with that tomorrow.

I guess I'll go ahead and rough polish the wing stub skins, lock the wings down, and fit the skins. I'll set them aside while waiting for new swivel set screws.

Forever Forward,

Wes

[thomasjones42]

"I pulled out the swivel set screws and they were all rusted. I was able to get the ball in two of the screws to rotate but the other two were hopeless. Probably best to just get new ones. I'll check with the factory Monday to see what the situation is. Meanwhile I googled a little and came up with these: https://www.nbk1560.com/en-US/products/ ... CSS-R(INCH)/. They are available in steel and stainless. Haven't checked delivery."

I found my factory swivel set screws were a little short. As an alternate source for you, after a lot of searching on the internet I found "ball ended thrust screws" on MSC Industrial Supply. For what it's worth.

Tom Jones
Onex 0133
Turbo Aerovee

[Area 51%]

What is the thread size? If they are 8mm, you might try a VW valve adjuster.

[WesRagle]

I found my factory swivel set screws were a little short. As an alternate source for you, after a lot of searching on the internet I found "ball ended thrust screws" on MSC Industrial Supply. For what it's worth.

Hi Tom,

Thanks. I think the thread is a 5/16 - 18. Is that right?
This is what I find at MSC: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/73261570

This is what I have:


I have been unable to find anything over one inch long. Do you remember what you ordered?

Thanks,

Wes

[thomasjones42]

Wes,
MSC part number is 74698515. Thread is 5/16-18. Overall length is 1" 9/16". Thread length is 1" 1/4".

Tom Jones
Onex 0133
Turbo Aerovee

[WesRagle]

Wes,
MSC part number is 74698515. Thread is 5/16-18. Overall length is 1" 9/16". Thread length is 1" 1/4".

Tom Jones
Onex 0133
Turbo Aerovee

Thanks a bunch Tom. For some reason I was fixated on the "headless" version of the screw, hence the 1" max length. After seeing the rust on the original screws I'm considering stainless for the replacements. We'll see.

Thanks Again,

Wes