Ideas for pre heating engine and oil

[gyroron]

Went out to the airport couple nights ago and tried starting my 3300 Jabiru up. Recently purchased this plane and this was the coldest start for me since I bought it a few weeks ago.... Temps all day were in the upper 40's and plane was in my hangar out of the sun. Engine did not want to start... took many many attempts, cowl had to be pulled so jumper cables could be attached, etc... Finally got it to start by putting some mixed gas I had in the hangar for my ultralight, into a water bottle and dripping out about a tablespoons worth of gas onto the air filter then quickly getting in the plane and working the starter... It finally fired up after that.

Engine has the aero injector carb and there is no choke. Called Sonex and asked should I install some kind of primer or something to help cold starts and they said no. They said I just need to pre heat the engine and I won't have issues starting when its cold out.

I have power in my hangar, so thats a plus. I would like something I can just plug up and leave on all the time if possible. So if the mood strikes me to go flying at any time, the plane will be ready. But I also don't want anything that is a fire hazard or overly risky or very expensive.

I wouldn't mind using some kind of forced hot air set up once I arrive at the airport if that is reasonably effective and doesn't take more than 15-20 minutes to do the job.

I do have one of those semi-large kerosene heaters like this https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac ... 0UQAvD_BwE But this thing puts out a crazy amount of heat and I am not sure how I could pipe that heat into the cowling, and if I just pointed it at the plane with the cowling on, it would still take a long long time to actually heat up the oil and make for an actual warm engine.

Also considering something like this, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Feit-Electr ... 815395-_-N Where I just install that in a fixture like this, https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-300-Wat ... 684496-_-N Where I clamp the fixture to something I laid on the ground under the engine cowling, and point the bulb upwards and then throw a blanket over the cowl to make the heat rise up into the engine compartment. Could even use a timer so it only runs at certain times, as I wouldn't likely go to the airport any later than sunset, or before 8 am to fly, so it could turn off from say 5 pm till 7 am every day to conserve energy...

Thoughts ideas?

I figured an electric dipstick would be a super-easy way to do it, but the reviews I read on those, they seem to be cheaply made, possible fire hazard, etc.... All the reviews on the 20-50$ ones I see on amazon are very bad.

Those stick-on pads for the oil pan, not sure if those are meant to be left on and running for hours upon hours or even days upon days... I am too far from the airport to just drive out there to plug in or unplug heaters.

Also those stick-on pad heaters, they say need to be installed on smooth metal surfaces... the oil sump on the jabiru is a roughcast aluminum surface, not sure how well those pads will stick.
Also, I see those pads vary ALOT in price depending on where you buy it from. Aircraft spruce has one for 163$ but then I see others nearly identical looking on Amazon for 30-70$... Again, I don't want a fire so I am hesitant to cheap out on this, but not sure even the expensive one from spruce isn't also a fire hazard.

Appreciate any input

[DCASonex]

I have the Tannis engine heater system. It is not the lowest cost solution, and there are many arguments against it, especially the way i use it, but it has worked very well for me. They sell this as a kit, but might want to get just components as I discarded the fancy and cumbersome wiring harness in favor of one I made. They provide 6 (for a 3300) 1/4-20 bolts that have 40 watt heaters built into them and which replace a single bolt in each rocker cover, and a stick on 40 watt pad heater for the sump. (I added a second one for more even heat distribution through the engine.)

I have this system connected through a small adapter box that plugs between extension cord and the plug on the system That has a breaker, a diode to effectively drop power in half, a switch to bypass the diode.and a pilot light. I also have a separate light dimmer that i plug this into to further reduce the power level. Being located in Western NY, flying opportunities in Winter are quite limited so it often sits in its hangar for a couple of months between flights. I leave the heater system continuously on at a low setting to keep engine consistently just a bit above ambient temperature to minimize condensation in the engine. The argument against this is that heat is also promotes corrosion, and oil will run off warm cylinder walls faster than from cold ones. By keeping mine set for just enough heat input to keep it above ambient , I do not see any evidence of condensation, and bore scope inspections in the spring have shown little or no evidence of corrosion. If using only a sump heater, do not leave power on continuously, you will still get condensation in the cooler heads, and the heat will promote corrosion.

My CAMit engine was early enough that it did not have CAMit's built in head heaters, but took a page from that and drilled and tapped a hole under each cylinder head in the same location that CAMit used for theirs and relocated my rocker cover heater bolts to that location, out of the way and no need to unplug and remove when inspecting valves.

One other method of preheat might be worth considering, simple glue on heater pad(s) for the sump and a cell phone activated switch to turn the system on remotely so all is nice and warm and ready to go when you get to the hangar.

David A.

[Spaceman]

It was a couple years ago at least, but I remember seeing a Hints for Homebuilders article in an EAA magazine about a cheap DIY forced air heater. They used an electric space heater with a fan, and flexible dryer ducts to duct all the air into the cowl inlets. Then I think they used some kind of cell phone activated switch to turn it on and off remotely. If you have wi-fi in your hangar by any chance they also have those smart outlets for Christmas lights or whatever that you can turn on with an app on your phone.

[Spaceman]

Here's an example sort of like what I'm talking about:
https://eaa1189.org/david-haneys-engine-pre-heater/

Then you'd just need a way to turn it on remotely.

[Scott Todd]

There is a Ryan PT-22 at my airport. I once asked what the lights were on under the cowl for. He said it was his engine heater. He said it started much better warm. He just left them on all the time. I don't recall if the rest of the engine was covered. Its Arizona so it doesn't' get really cold here but certainly near freezing at night. I don't know anymore details but it seems like a simple solution if the conditions are right.

[builderflyer]

If the 40s are as cold as your winter temps get then what has worked for me is to first utilize Aeroshell 15w50 oil year round and second to carefully direct hot air from a heat gun into the cowling outlets for a few minutes before attempting to start. If you have an older 3300 like mine (with the black starter motor ) then you'll always be at a disadvantage for starting, cold or hot. I'm not into using a lithium battery and the Odyssey battery I've used for years has been marginal in its cranking power. So in the past year I've been using a Deka battery (ouch, it's heavy) and it's increased cranking power has more than offset the additional weight penalty.

Hope this helps,

Art,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sonex taildragger #95,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Jabiru 3300 #261

[Onex107]

My Airovee Onex is heated by a small box heater, like you would put under a desk, with a 90 degree transition duct, bought at Menards, taped to the front, and placed under the engine, blowing straight up through the bottom opening. The heater has two temp settings and speeds. It is on 24/7 on the lower setting until the temps get below freezing and then I go to the high setting. The cowl is covered with a fitted, insulating cover I made for my old Cessna. The oil temp at start is 70 to 80 degrees all the time. The airplane thinks it's in Florida. It doesn't cycle through dew point every day at a constant temp.

[tx_swordguy]

https://katsblockheater.com/block-heate ... heater-250 I have the 4x5 on my jab 3300. just clean the side of the oil pan real well (i used acetone and let it dry real well) stick it on and press all the pad down well. Then put some hi-temp silicone around the edges and go. I have had mine on for a yr no propblems, others 4+ yrs no problems. after a 30ish degree night and getting to the airport around 10-11 I plug it in first thing, do my preflight (20 min or so) the oil will routinely read 80 degrees at start up. It will then cool off a couple of degrees (mid 70s) until the engine is warmed up. I like it, it works for me and no trouble starting.
Mark
oh and ps, you can trim the edge but be very careful or you will cut the wires that heat the unit. I would not trim more than 1/8 inch or so off the edge if needed.

[inventor]

You could bet a WiFi plug if you can connect to the internet at your hangar. You could turn the heater on and off from your phone from anywhere.

[Bryan Cotton]

In the PA28R180 I used to fly, we would put a 100W trouble light underneath. Foam bird blockers in the inlets, and a blanket on top. Ran it 24/7. Made a difference.