Aileron Stops

[daleandee]

My aileron stop is on the triangle assembly of the center stick. The aileron weights should not be hitting the wing skin! Here's a center stick photo (not mine) with the stop clearly visible:



It's been a few days since I did the set up but I recall that the ailerons/flaps were set using a straight edge up from the rear of the aileron forward over the rivet line at the main spar. There is a measurement from the wing surface up to the straight edge at the overlap area on the spar (I don't recall that measurement). There is also instructions for the alignment position of the aileron bell cranks in the wings when properly rigged. My DAR would not have passed my airplane if the wing skin was the aileron stop or if my counterweight was contacting the wing spar cut out.

The aileron should have the correct amount of travel each way when the rods are not attached. If you can't get the required up/down travel without something making contact, then you have a build error. Once you have enough travel then you use the rods to set the length so that as the aileron reaches the end of its travel (its designed up & down travel), the stop on triangle assembly of the stick makes contact. Keep in mind that the positions of the aileron bell cranks will effect this.

Dunno if this helps,

Dale Williams
N319WF @ 6J2
Myunn - "daughter of Cleanex"
120 HP - 3.0 Corvair
Tail Wheel - Center Stick
Signature Finish 2200 Paint Job
166.7 hours / Status - Flying
Member # 109 - Florida Sonex Association

[Area 51%]

With regard to "build error", FEI, and in my defense, the dimension from the edge of the rear spar to the edge of the counter-balance hole is listed as 5/8in. My super-secret decoder ring translates that to .625in. What I got with the factory rear spar was .662in. Not a lot to be sure, but enough to make contact when no interference should be present.

Just not sure weather to take the material from the spar or the counter-balance arms.

[NWade]

I am having a bit of trouble with my aileron stops. As it is now, my left aileron limit is the rod on the part below the stick (I can't remember the plans name for this part) that contacts the control frame and functions as a stop. The right aileron limit is the counterweight contacting the lower wing skin. I rigged the aileron bellcranks per the plans, the ailerons have the appropriate range of motion per the plans, and the sticks are straight up with neutral ailerons. I am confused on how to fix this. I thought the phenolic in the bellcrank was the stop, so I tried adjusting the right bellcrank so that it would hit the phneolic at full travel, and it greatly reduced the range on the left aileron and threw everything off. Has anyone else had this problem? What limits your ailerons?

Did you ever resolve this problem? I believe I’m running into the exact same issue you had.

When I move the stick throughout its range, the stop on the stick makes contact with the control triangle when I put the stick to the left. But when I put the stick to the right I find the right wing aileron counterweight is making contact with the lower skin when the control stop is a little less than 1/8” off the control triangle.
But here’s the odd thing: when I use an angle finder to measure the full-deflection positions of each aileron, both are achieving about 20 degrees up and 11 degrees down. The same total travel on each aileron despite the *stick* travel being different in each direction! Starting with the stick vertical and the ailerons and flaps all rigged neutral per the plans, I can deflect the stick 28 degrees to the left but only 24 degrees to the right (whereupon the counterweight contacts the lower skin). Both bellcranks are set to the 25-degree angle relative to their nearest wing rib, so how am I getting the same control deflections for a different amount of stick deflection?

Any ideas or experience solving this issue is much appreciated!

—Noel
P.S. I thought about playing with the aileron bellcrank angle in the right wing to get a different ratio of stick movement to aileron deflection, but the spanwise pushrod ends were already screwed down as far as possible (I.e. to shorten the rod length) just to get the plans-specified 25 degree angle! I can’t shorten it any more without taking an angle-grinder to the threaded rod…