Another dimpling thread

[peter anson]

A friend, Brian Rebbechi, is building a Xenos and he used the Cleaveland Tools DIENQ dimple die set that a few people have mentioned, and I think the results are exceptional.

The process he used was:
1. Re-bend the nose skins so that they are a better fit against the ribs. Quite a few builders perform this operation. Brian used the Tony Spicer bend brake method but you could also use the vacuum bag method.
2. Fit the skins and pilot all holes to #40
3. Dimple the holes using Dimple Die Set for 1/8" Adel N or Q - #40 Pilot (Item number DIENQ) available from Cleaveland Tools - http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Dimple-Die-Set-for-1_8-Adel-N-or-Q-40-Pilot/productinfo/DIENQ/#.WjEJo1WWbIU
4. Assemble the parts using 1/8" Clecos - the dimpling process enlarges the hole to nearly 1/8".
5. Drill or ream the holes to 1/8" (not #30) and rivet.

Only wish I had done the same.

Peter

[brian_rebbechi]

Just a brief follow-up to Peter's post on my dimpling, in case anyone wonders, the dark grey appearance around the rivet head is actually Duralac - I dip the stainless steel rivets in the yellow Duralac, to inhibit corrosion due to the contact of the stainless rivets with the aluminium structure. It is widely used in marine applications where stainless fittings are in contact with aluminium.
I should add also that I had no problem with the rivet mandrels protruding. I guess that's a result of the good fit of the CCC-42 rivet in the skin and rib flange. Cleaveland recommend using a reamer rather than a drill to finish the hole, which I did, using a 1/8" reamer. An earlier post showed some good photos of the advantage of using a reamer.

Brian Xenos #0058