Edge hole distance woes (elevator)

[samiam]

Building the elevators has really slowed down my progress - having to actually measure, cut, and drill my own holes really makes me appreciate the rest of the kit! I was initially not very happy with my edge-hole distances, and so I have been spending a lot of time measuring (and re-measuring, it seems like dozens of times) and using templates to get perfect rivet lines.

All was going smoothly, and today I went to attach the hinge:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0U7g ... Y4RzB5MGtr

I was particularly proud of the perfectly drilled line of holes in the hinge, and figured that I'd be set. However, after drilling to #30, and disassembling, I found this:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0U7g ... J3Y0twd2dR

The inside lip of the edge skin has a gradually decreased hole edge distance. Although it starts off on the inboard end as an acceptable 1/4", it gradually decreases until it is down to 5/32", which is of course way too small. I'm going to send an email to Sonex, but I fear that I will have to scrap the whole elevator and remake it. Lesson learned!

[Bruce593SX]

Your pics need open permissions...

[Sonex1517]

Ditto - I did not have permission to view the photos.

[samiam]

Should be fixed now, sorry! Appreciate any input.

[mike.smith]

Did you drill the hinge holes and the elevator holes separately? Unless you are a machine, you won't get things to line up that way. You need to drill the hinge holes and use the hinge to locate the elevator holes. That goes for all the parts. You drill part A and use it to locate the holes for part B. If I'm misunderstanding your process please elaborate.

[Bryan Cotton]

Mike (samiam),
See what Sonex says about that edge distance. A lot of Sonex edge distance is designed around the minimum. What the creeping holes tell me though is that one side of the elevator box was not down all the way. Did you true the flanges on the ribs to 90 degrees? Also, I prefer to transfer holes from the hinge to the first flange only - the short one. Then I put the hinge aside. Next I locate, drill, and cleco the forward rib holes that do not go through the hinge. The clecos pull the rib tight against the skin. That helps make your elevator box true. Then close the lid, make sure all looks well, and transfer the hinge holes. If you read my thread you see how I used a long piece of duct tape, folded in a T as a handle for a pair of pliers. Screw a board to your table to pull against and put the line of hinge holes on the bottom. Once that seam is clecoed go back and do the ribs. Then put the hinge on and updrill.

Good luck! I've done worse and recovered. The only critical skill is perseverance.

[samiam]

Did you drill the hinge holes and the elevator holes separately? Unless you are a machine, you won't get things to line up that way. You need to drill the hinge holes and use the hinge to locate the elevator holes. That goes for all the parts. You drill part A and use it to locate the holes for part B. If I'm misunderstanding your process please elaborate.

I did it as you described. Pilot drilled the hinge, then drilled the hinge to the elevator.

[samiam]

Mike (samiam),
See what Sonex says about that edge distance. A lot of Sonex edge distance is designed around the minimum. What the creeping holes tell me though is that one side of the elevator box was not down all the way. Did you true the flanges on the ribs to 90 degrees? Also, I prefer to transfer holes from the hinge to the first flange only - the short one. Then I put the hinge aside. Next I locate, drill, and cleco the forward rib holes that do not go through the hinge. The clecos pull the rib tight against the skin. That helps make your elevator box true. Then close the lid, make sure all looks well, and transfer the hinge holes. If you read my thread you see how I used a long piece of duct tape, folded in a T as a handle for a pair of pliers. Screw a board to your table to pull against and put the line of hinge holes on the bottom. Once that seam is clecoed go back and do the ribs. Then put the hinge on and updrill.

Good luck! I've done worse and recovered. The only critical skill is perseverance.

You are correct Bryan, but here is the interesting part - the ribs were in place except for the root rib (attached to the horn), BUT the edge spacing was fine at the root. It was the outboard end, which had its ribs cleco'ed in place at the time.