Left wing page SNX-W08 question - pre-made spars

[Sonex1517]

I am certain I am misunderstanding this. We have the pre-made spars from Sonex and I am working on the left wing of Sonex 1517, page SNX-W08, detail "B" and detail "E."

On page SNX-W08, detail "B" shows part SNX-W11-11 installed on the main spar. Where the plans show the part installed, and the AN bolts installed, my pre-assembled spar from Sonex has solid rivets. I have attached a photo of this.

I see the same situation at detail "E" -- there are solid rivets already installed as received from Sonex...second photo attached.

I am confused...I just shot tech support an email with both photos....

Hs anyone here used the pre-made spars? If so what am I missing? I find it unlikely I am expected to drill out any solid rivets.

[Sonex1517]

For what it is worth, I had not lost my mind. Several Sonex builders with pre made spars contacted me - they had nice holes where I have pretty rivets. (there is a bawdy joke in here somewhere)

Kerry responded from Sonex. I get to drill out some rivets. He apologized for the inconvinience.

Not too pleased in having to do this on parts I paid for, and am concerned if I screw up.....but it's a part of the learning process I guess. So off to the hardware store I go to get nice new drill bits to remove the driven rivets. Good excuse to drag my son along so my wife can watch "House" this evening....

[rizzz]

That is a bugger.
I've never had to drill out a solid rivet so I'm not sure if it is more or less difficulty than drilling out the blind rivets.
I'm sure it's doable, the RV builders I know have all had to do it plenty of times.
Be very careful I guess.

[sonex892]

This is just in case you dont know. The normal method of removing a solid rivet is not to drill them out but rather to use a pin punch and knock them out.

Start by drilling a shallow hole into the factory head, down to roughly the depth of the factory head. Use the same diameter drill as the rivet hole for this. Insert the pin punch into the shallow hole and wiggle it back and forth to break off the rivet head. Then to use the pin punch and hammer to knock the rivet out. Generally the thicker material the harder it will be to knock out.

Only if the rivet wont budge with the punch will you have to resort to drilling it out. Same method is used for both countersunk and normal rivets. Good luck

Steve 892

[Sonex1517]

Thanks for the hints!