Rudder / vertical stabilizer

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Rudder / vertical stabilizer

Postby Concorde » Mon Dec 29, 2014 12:29 pm

Just hooked the Rudder to the Stabilizer and noticed that the Rudder is about 2/32 higher than the Vertical Stabilizer .
1 - Would this cause any problem ?
2 - Can I put a 2/32 spacer under the Tail tip rib and just trim the cap by 2/32 ?
I could put a new hinge on the Vertical but the holes won't be in the center of hinges.
Also I can't find anything about torquing the AN3-7a bolts on the Vertical Spar.
Looking forward to your suggestions.
Thanks.
Ben
Sonex 1684
Ben
Sonex # 1684
Tri-Gear, Dual Control
Rotax 912uls
N379BS reserved.
Concorde
 
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Location: North Carolina

Re: Rudder / vertical stabilizer

Postby NWade » Mon Dec 29, 2014 1:15 pm

Concorde wrote:Just hooked the Rudder to the Stabilizer and noticed that the Rudder is about 2/32 higher than the Vertical Stabilizer .
1 - Would this cause any problem ?
2 - Can I put a 2/32 spacer under the Tail tip rib and just trim the cap by 2/32 ?
I could put a new hinge on the Vertical but the holes won't be in the center of hinges.
Also I can't find anything about torquing the AN3-7a bolts on the Vertical Spar.
Looking forward to your suggestions.
Thanks.
Ben
Sonex 1684


Ben -

It could be caused by misalignment of the rudder hinge on one (or both) sides. Not sure I can answer question #2 without seeing it... Do you have photos?

As for torquing bolts: Unless otherwise specified in the plans or Sonex instruction sheets, you should generally follow the guidelines from AC 43.13-1B. If you don't have it, you should get a hard-copy and keep it in your work-area for handy reference; there's tons of good info in there about how to attach and fasten all kinds of things. Here's a link to the online version:
http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentid/99861
...and chapter 7 has several tables showing bolt torque min and max values for different kinds of bolts**. Be careful to notice when "inch-pounds" are specified, and when "foot-pounds" are specified!

Good luck with your project!

--Noel

**Note that castled nuts (with a cotter-pin) may or may not need to be torqued, depending on their function. When in doubt, contact Sonex tech support. There are also some good "Hints for Homebuilders" videos on the EAA website showing castle-nut/cotter-pin installation, as well as tons of other useful techniques that come in handy all over the Sonex.
NWade
 
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Re: Rudder / vertical stabilizer

Postby Concorde » Mon Dec 29, 2014 6:43 pm

It is caused by misalignment of the hinge on the Rudder side I guess my eyes aren't as good as they used to be. I think the simple solution is the spacer under the tip rib where it's attaches to the Vertical, but like to know if there is a better way.
Thanks Noel.
Ben
Ben
Sonex # 1684
Tri-Gear, Dual Control
Rotax 912uls
N379BS reserved.
Concorde
 
Posts: 176
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:11 pm
Location: North Carolina

Re: Rudder / vertical stabilizer

Postby falvarez » Mon Dec 29, 2014 7:25 pm

I don't believe there is anything structural about the Vertical Stabilizer Tip, so I would think you could adjust as needed (remember in the old days there was no tip). I made my tip from scratch, but I believe for the kit built tip there is still a sheet metal insert above the vertical stab...moving this up 2/32 should not be a problem.
Frank Alvarez
Sonex #800, Aerovee 2.1
Scratch Building (working on Cowl)
falvarez
 
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Re: Rudder / vertical stabilizer

Postby Concorde » Tue Dec 30, 2014 7:59 pm

I received a e-mail from Sonex that suggested to trim the tip and to put some shims under the tip rib.
Also to torque the AN 6-7A bolt to 20 to 25 inch/lbs .
I really appreciated the very quick respond from Sonex specially since they are closed for the holidays .
Thank you Noel and Frank for your help.
Ben
Ben
Sonex # 1684
Tri-Gear, Dual Control
Rotax 912uls
N379BS reserved.
Concorde
 
Posts: 176
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 2:11 pm
Location: North Carolina


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