Cabin Heat Setup

[aganjoo]

Hi Folks

With the fall setting in NOVA and temps dropping I am planning on finalizing cabin heat in my Sonex. During the build I went ahead and installed the cabin heat shuttle box from ACS on the firewall but temporarily bolted the flapper shut since I did not want to spend time figuring out how to route the control cable. For those of you who have used the product listed below or something similar, how did you route the cable. The way it is designed it seems that pull out would be closed unless you reverse linkages. I already have hot air going into the shuttle kit but getting dumped out down since flapper is shut

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... ey=1773717

Any suggestions or recommendations/pictures of install would be greatly appreciated. Instead of using a standard control cable on the panel I am also debating using a trim tab kind of setup somewhere on the fuselage floor. Any thoughts about that.

Cheers

Amit

[Sonex541]

I have the same setup and used a basic , autozone ,universal choke cable and mounted it under the dash , push it in and opens the flapper , pull it out and it closes it , 99 percent of the time I fly with it open for fresh air in the summer , and heat in the winter ,
Adam Simmons
Somex541sx

[mike.smith]

I have the same setup and used a basic , autozone ,universal choke cable and mounted it under the dash , push it in and opens the flapper , pull it out and it closes it , 99 percent of the time I fly with it open for fresh air in the summer , and heat in the winter ,
Adam Simmons
Somex541sx

I fly with mine closed all the time or it gets hot in there! I arranged my controls so the flapper is closed when the knob is fully into (against) the panel, and open when pulled out.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 68&row=142
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 54&row=110
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 80&row=106
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 980&row=86

This is the one that best shows the connection of the cable to the flapper. My recollection is that I did reverse something from what was suggested, to get it to be "off" when the cable was all the way forward:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 560&row=82

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 244&row=64
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 776&row=62

Mike Smith

[aganjoo]

Thanks mike

The pictures help. I mounted it top down vs sideways so I may have to redo my setup

[mike.smith]

I would rather have put mine under the pilot's feet, but I have my smoke system plumbing there, so I put it on the passenger side.

I have used my heat recently, and it does work. I have a small plate covering the inlet from the rear baffle, with a medium sized hole in it. I'll take the plate entirely out when the weather gets colder. The plate is to reduce the heat inlet size, to not take cooling air from the engine when some of the air is being redirected for cabin heat. But so far I have not seen a temperature difference in the #3/#4 CHTs with or without the plate.

Mike

[hickej]

Here is my heat setup. It works fairly well but could use more heat pickup. I'm going to add another heat muff to the system this Fall. I also added heated seats by putting in a set of car seat carbon heating elements wired to two power adaptors for pilot and passenger. My wife really liked those. NOTE: I had to turn off some lights to get enough juice from the alternator.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lcBrMMkRFa0

Jim W0162 TD3300

[mike.smith]

Here is my heat setup. It works fairly well but could use more heat pickup. I'm going to add another heat muff to the system this Fall. I also added heated seats by putting in a set of car seat carbon heating elements wired to two power adaptors for pilot and passenger. My wife really liked those. NOTE: I had to turn off some lights to get enough juice from the alternator.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lcBrMMkRFa0

Jim W0162 TD3300

My heat muff used the same kind of tabs at either end, held in place with stainless steel clamps. After only about 30 hours all the tabs had broken from fatigue (vibration). I have exhaust wrap butting up to each end of the muff. The clamps and wrap are what are keeping the muff in place (not sliding up or down the exhaust). So no reason to change it, but for anyone using the tab method, consider they may fail in short order, and plan accordingly.

Mike Smith
N439M
AeroVee

[hickej]

I'll definitely have to keep an eye on it. So far over 100 hours without a problem on the Jabiru.

[Rynoth]

Just noticed this cabin heat kit at Airward. There are individual parts for sale if you already have your firewall flapper. Seems a little expensive but takes out some of the metalwork?

http://www.airward.com/amelia/search.as ... 676&id=706

[mike.smith]

Just noticed this cabin heat kit at Airward. There are individual parts for sale if you already have your firewall flapper. Seems a little expensive but takes out some of the metalwork?

http://www.airward.com/amelia/search.as ... 676&id=706

Wow! Certainly is pricy!! I do like the piano hinge idea on the muff. Kinda like a Sonex detail!

Mike Smith