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My Oil Pressure Sender is located as per the picture below on the right side of the picture. I'm thinking the Aerovee guys mount it in one of the plugs between the '3' & '4'. Is that correct? Reason I'm asking is that I'd like to mount my sender in a different location to see if it affects the cooling on those two cylinders. #4 is the hottest followed by #3. The only difference between the left and right bank of cylinders is that the oil filter (bottom right) sticks slightly in the cooling airflow and that oil pressure sender is very much in the cooling airflow.

So, I'm looking for an alternate location to get the sender out of the breeze to see if it makes any difference.

Thanks...

My sender is in the same spot as yours. Seems to work fine. The ports with plugs in your picture are for the oil cooler, or bypass if you are running the bottom cooler. Why is cool air bad for a pressure transducer?

You could mount it remotely on the firewall for example. It might last longer too with less vibrations. Some of us Rotax drivers do that.

Murray Parr wrote:You could mount it remotely on the firewall for example. It might last longer too with less vibrations. Some of us Rotax drivers do that.

I agree, that sounds like a real good solution. If I do that, the question still stands. Should I still tap into this location (though an elbo and hose here would be fine) or take it from some other location.

Thanks Murray.

I'd put your elbow at the same location.

Your cylinders are covered by the silver metal held together with wire. Why!? That's not the VW super-tin, and you are blocking all the air flow to the cylinders. I would have to say THAT is why you are running hot.

mike.smith wrote:Your cylinders are covered by the silver metal held together with wire. Why!? That's not the VW super-tin, and you are blocking all the air flow to the cylinders. I would have to say THAT is why you are running hot.

Maybe it's on upside down? I totally missed that.

mike.smith wrote:Your cylinders are covered by the silver metal held together with wire. Why!? That's not the VW super-tin, and you are blocking all the air flow to the cylinders. I would have to say THAT is why you are running hot.

This is the the standard Revmaster shrouding, it wraps around the barrels and heads, and FORCES all the air to go through the fins of the heads and cylinder barrels. It's certainly lighter than the Cool Tins and probably more effective.

Murray Parr wrote:You could mount it remotely on the firewall for example. It might last longer too with less vibrations. Some of us Rotax drivers do that.

Mine is mounted remotely on the rear baffle, but it picks up from the AeroVee block off plate.
http://eaabuilderslog.org/showmy.php?p= ... 931840.jpg
http://eaabuilderslog.org/showmy.php?p= ... 824166.jpg
The sensor line was a pre-made bit from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-6 ... r5EALw_wcB. I got a certain amount of shit for doing it this way http://www.facebook.com/groups/15811119 ... 619415462/

In response to the OP's point about flow, the cowl/baffling system relies on PRESSURE difference to CREATE flow. The idea is to pressurize the top plenum, and create a vacuum on the lower cowl, and seal all the gaps so the ONLY path for the pressure is THROUGH the heads and cylinder barrel fins. The speed of the airflow, and thus any disturbances from partial obstructions, in the upper cowling is a Hygiene Factor, yeah, it's present, but it's not determinative.

Here is the solution that I finally took (pic). Karmarepair, your summit racing hose is just what I wanted to do but the tubing was on hand making it quick work. Though, even though the sender is mounted ridgedly, I may change it. Something else I may do is to put a restrictor in the 45 deg NPT-AN fitting, especially if I keep the tubing.

For grins, you may notice, I also cut a hole in the cyl-4 wrap. I'll close this when I get to go up and test to see if moving the sender made any difference in evening out the cylinder temps. It's not that they are too high, but I'm just fine tuning.