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Removing flywheel

PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2024 9:49 am
by mccool
I have to pull the sump on my Gen2 3300, (don't ask!!), and to do that, I need to remove the flywheel! #@$%%**!
So far I've heated the bolts with a 1500W heat gun, protecting the magnets of course. All per the instructions, but can't get the bolts to budge.
Anyone else been successful with this, and how did you do it??

Re: Removing flywheel

PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2024 11:51 am
by Kai
What kind of heat gun is that- electrical?

Sorry, but that won´t do it. Those bolts are secured with Loctite 620, which needs something around 150 centigrades on the bolt heads to let go-maybe even more. This means concentrated heat on each bolt head from either a propane torch or better still an oxy-acy one for quite a while.

Make sure you throw away the old bolts after you´re done.

Re: Removing flywheel

PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2024 11:35 am
by snx590
Hi Ace,

Did you get the flywheel removed? What serial number do you have? There was a point where the sump could be removed without removing the backplate (those bolts were eliminated). Not sure what serial for the 3300 that happened.
What is your current engine status? I see you've had some work done this year at Arion.
I'm removing con rods in my #1574 (case not split - new Jabiru piston pins are too tight in my original rods). 550F on my Steinel heat gun with the 07062 reduction nozzle to focus the airflow did the trick with the 620 on the con rod bolts (yes...very unconventional...). I'm hoping to get everything off without dropping something in the sump.... (ok so far).