rough running 3300

[tx_swordguy]

I know my solid lifter 3300 is running very rich after just changing plugs despite how I ground run and fly (1350 F in cruise and ground run so lean that moving the throttle kills it) so I ordered a rotec tbi yet to be delivered and I am ditching the aeroinjector. The last week or two a new issue (may or may not be related) popped up. Up until a month ago I had an oddysey battery that fired it by the second blade of the prop. The battery failed and I replaced it with a cheaper batt that had more cranking amps and it was taking about 3 sec to start. last week it took about 5-7 sec and when it started it was running roughly and run up left switch dropped 120 rpm and rt dropped about 30-50 after running at 1800 rpm for several min thinking the plugs got fouled I took off and stayed over the airport. I came back and it passed run up so I went flying. today it was doing the same thing 7sec to start and running obviously rougher on left switch even after replacing distributor cap and rotor and adjusting coil/magnet spacing. The dist cap rotor was a napa compatible so I bit the bullet and have a Jab set coming at a cost of $200. with the non OEM dist it is still running roughly and took 7-8 sec to start. I am going to replace the old left coil for lack of anything else to try unless the plug wires may be bad. new honda coil on rt side ohmed at 6.6 on 200k setting and old coild ohmed at 5.5 on same setting. I would think stuck valves would not show up running differently on one switch or the other so I don't think it is a stuck valve but would a coil be iffy like that? or just either work or not? Middle two cyl EGT were slow to come up but don't really remember it being abnormal but I did notice it since I was looking at all the gauges while it was running poorly.
I guess I can look into the plug wires but they do not "appear" to be bad.
Mark

[N111YX]

While I'm no expert, I can give you a list of things that I have either replaced preventatively or because of failure. Over the course of nearly 10 years, I have enjoyed a 99% dispatch rate with only the aging of some electrical components that gave me a little trouble.

-OEM caps/rotors (every 3-4 years or 200 hours)
-plug wires (every 3-4 years or 200 hours)
-ignition coils (780 hours, one was bad, replaced both)
-alternator (770 hours, preventative)
-voltage regulator (770 hours, preventative)
-new spark plugs every 50 hours
-Odyssey 625 batteries may last two years or seven, check the date of manufacture before buying, the newer the better

One thing I do have going for me is a trouble-free, well operating Aero-Carb.

[builderflyer]

Mark, I'm no expert either and you don't say what your engine serial number is..........but if it is close to mine I'll offer a word of caution on setting the 0.010" clearance between the ignition coils and the magnets on the flywheel. When my engine was manufactured by Jabiru in 2001, they didn't true up the magnet distance from the center of rotation as they did on later engines. So when setting the 0.010" clearance you have to first determine which of the 3 sets of magnets is the critical set.......the set that will give you the tightest clearance to the ignition coils. Then, once you have that determined, verify which of the 3 magnets in that set of magnets gives you the tightest clearance to the ignition coil and use that one to set the 0.010". Also, use a felt tip pen to color all of the magnets on the flywheel on the edge facing the ignition coils. That way if you ever you have a magnet nicking an ignition coil, you'll see where the pen marking has been disturbed before you run your engine too long this way.

Setting the ignition coil to magnet clearance on these older engines is a real pain but well worth the effort to get it right or at least to avoid interference between the two.

One more thing.........except for spark plugs and an occasional ignition coil when it has burned out, I've not replaced any other components on my 19 year old engine. Well, a couple of years ago I did replace a tired old Aerocarb with a new Aeroinjector.

Hope this is of some benefit to you,

Art,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sonex taildragger #95,,,,,,,,,,,,Jabiru 3300 #261

[tx_swordguy]

Along the lines of wire replacement, is there an off the shelf sparkplug wire replacement? Or is it a custom job? Or get it through jab USA and take out a loan?
Mark

[N111YX]

I bought mine from Jabiru USA. They were pricey and the wire lengths were odd. Some had to be doubled up from excess length.
But, they work. I'll be that they could easily be made with a little knowledge of how to properly crimp (and source) the end bits.

Along the lines of wire replacement, is there an off the shelf sparkplug wire replacement? Or is it a custom job? Or get it through jab USA and take out a loan?
Mark

[fastj22]

Along the lines of wire replacement, is there an off the shelf sparkplug wire replacement? Or is it a custom job? Or get it through jab USA and take out a loan?
Mark

Its automotive grade, so theoretically, you could just go get a spool of wire and some ends roll your own. Youtube should give you the skills. I'm at 450 hours and thinking about doing the same thing.