SonexBuilders.net

Guys,
I'm having trouble routing the spark plug wire through the rear baffle. It seems the wire is not quite long enough. Plus the reinforced connector boot on the intake manifold (it's the new design with two diameters) gets in the way of the spark plug boot. I cut away a small portion of it so the spark plug boot has more room.

So with the slight interference, the shortness and the slight twist required to line up the metal connector with the spark plug tip, I haven't been able to actually make the connection with the noticeable click, which I can do if the spark plug boot is NOT on the wire.

Does anybody have a picture of the #1 cylinder which shows how the wire is routed?

It would help if the spark plug was about 1/2" longer. That would bring the tip out from under the red anodized intake manifold. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

Darick,
We haven't gotten to that part yet, so I can't be of much help. I'll be watching the other's answers though.

Wait- I have a thought. It's probably that paint. I recommend tearing the engine down so you can properly strip the case to bare mag.

I also found the wires tight but for me, the solution was to route out the spark plug hole larger. I then put the spark plug wire into a fire sleeve and ran it straight in. I have to basically remove the intake pipe to remove the plug.The boot is at a 3 o'clock direction going straight back to the firewall. My final step was to zip tie the fire sleeve to the intake pipe behind the firewall so the wire stays clear of the exhaust pipe (zip tie not shown in the first photo).

I know some people have had issues with the wires being melted on the exhaust pipe so all of my wires are in fire sleeves and zip tied to cooler parts of the engine.

Bryan,
Hmmm...take off manifold clamps, CHT and EGT sensors, baffles, cut 57 plastic tie wraps, lose track of wire routing, misplace my last 6mm screw, drop small nut down intake manifold, borrow (again) engine lift, replace half eaten (doggie misunderstanding) AeroVee manual...A-HA, I see where this is going. After I get it stripped and reassembled next July, you will have secretly painted YOURS a beautiful silver/chrome color. :o

jjbardell wrote:I also found the wires tight but for me, the solution was to route out the spark plug hole larger. I then put the spark plug wire into a fire sleeve and ran it straight in. I have to basically remove the intake pipe to remove the plug.The boot is at a 3 o'clock direction going straight back to the firewall. My final step was to zip tie the fire sleeve to the intake pipe behind the firewall so the wire stays clear of the exhaust pipe (zip tie not shown in the first photo).

I know some people have had issues with the wires being melted on the exhaust pipe so all of my wires are in fire sleeves and zip tied to cooler parts of the engine.

It looks like you used an intake manifold spacer, the piece under the red anodized elbow. There is no reference to using this in the manual. Using that spacer would give me a little more room for the spark plug boot but will that affect engine performance somehow? Maybe Joe N. can chime in here.

The spacers were introduced when the source for the heads changed to Mofoco. They weren't used with the old heads.

I think that using spacers on the old heads would cause the intake to sit higher, not run through the fence baffle in the same spot and also maybe cause issues where the intake bolts to the case on the under side of the engine.

Keith

Slight thread hijack: how do you route magnatron wires? They jam onto the accessory plate pretty badly.

Bryan,

Both wires go outside the accessory plate, rather than one going inside as you have in your photo. It's tight, but it works.

NGK makes a spark plug wire splice coupler that will allow you to extend the wire. I purchased a set of wires with a 45 degree angle spark plug boot that allows you to push the boot wire straight down over the plug. The coupler is made for boats so it's water proof. It has worked very well me, I found the wire that comes on the magnatron gets brittle with the cylinder heat and the new plug wires don't.

summit racing part number NGK 8083