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Off to a slow start. Still, it's a start. I spent some time going through the parts with Adam. Been a long time since we built the plastic visible L4 engine. We started off doing a little QA. We inspected the case per the SB for the breakout- seems good. Next I remember the issues Ryan had with his head. Turned off the lights in the hangar and put a flashlight up each port. Most were good, but I could see light on one side of one intake valve. May be crap stuck in the seat. I could use a recommendation for a valve compressor tool for the VW- anybody?

Next we went to bolt the cam gear to the cam. My cam kit had 3 bolts and two wavy washers. Where is the best place to get one? Any VW afficionados have a spare they could mail me?

Well, onto the rods. Opened up my lithium grease to find it is black, not white as called for. Darn! Any reason I can't use the moly engine assembly lube I bought? Reading the label it seems like this is what it is for.

The best spring compressor "type" is similar too this one: https://www.amazon.com/Unknown-50602-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B002GQEZH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475034656&sr=8-3&keywords=valve+spring+compressor
there are heavier models and I can't vouch for this particular one. This works with the heads removed only. I tried the type with the 2 jaws that will work with the head still in place on the engine and had clearance issues of getting the jaws on the spring without hitting the edges of the casting. this type is similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4573-Universal-Overhead-Compressor/dp/B000F5HUUI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475034656&sr=8-2&keywords=valve+spring+compressor

A better test for leaks is to put the plugs in and fill the chambers with gas or solvent and see how long they hold solvent. My last heads, 2 cylinders leaked out in under 15 min. The replacement heads, one leaked enough in 2 hours to see the solvent level had dropped. The other 3 held solvent at the same level overnight. A local IA said that was good enough.
I used white lithium grease to assemble mine but I'm certain I have read on the forum that several people have used the moly lube, don't know if there are advantages to either.

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Bryan Cotton wrote:I could use a recommendation for a valve compressor tool for the VW- anybody?

Next we went to bolt the cam gear to the cam. My cam kit had 3 bolts and two wavy washers. Where is the best place to get one? Any VW afficionados have a spare they could mail me?

Well, onto the rods. Opened up my lithium grease to find it is black, not white as called for. Darn! Any reason I can't use the moly engine assembly lube I bought? Reading the label it seems like this is what it is for.

You should be able to get the wavy washer just about anywhere It's just a thin M8(Lowes, Home Depot, Local auto parts, in the Metric section). I'm sure I have a bunch of wavy washers floating around in my garage somewhere.Don't forget to use some thread locker on those cam bolts. Ask me how I know. :roll:

I have an old valve compression tool for VW heads. Think I've used it once. It's steel and pretty big but I'd be happy to ship it if you'd like. Looks like this but it's probably 50 years old...


I don't see why you couldn't use the assembly lube of your choice but I've never actually read the Aerovee assembly manual. Think the last engine I put together I used a friends stuff and it was purple. Turned the engine oil pinkish when we broke the engine in and drained the oil the first time.

Glenn,
I struck out on wavy washers at Home Depot. I'll try Lowes.

Adam has used the torque wrench before but this task was an exercise in careful assembly and cleanliness. It came out good. Funny how the rods spin poorly until you start to torque them down.

All our side clearances were good. We measured one up at .014 just for the exercise then verified the rest were > .005 and < .020.

I'll go dig through my pile of VW crap and see if I can't find a washer for you. PM me your address and I'll shove some in a envelope on the off chance you can't find one. Let me know if you wan the vavle spring compressor. I can mail it to ya and you can hold it till I see you again or mail it on to the next guy who needs it. I don't do my own head work. There's a local shop I have do all that kind of work.

Glenn,
Found some wavy washers at Menards this AM. They are zinc plated. Looks similar to the ones in the kit- so I guess I'll use them. I have a valve spring compressor on its way. Thanks for the offer!

I've been cleaning up the case. Here is a case saver before I cleaned up the chips from milling for clearance:

I noticed the case savers can still spin. I had to spin some as it seems the machining operation spun them enough at the end that they were sticking up inside. Is it common to not locktite them in? No reference to it in the manual so I plan to continue.

Hard to see but I put mineral spirits in the head that passed the flashlight test:

It made it through a couple hours yesterday and I'll check it later today. Regarding the other head, Kerry instructed me to send it back. Good service there and thanks to the guys who shared their problems so I knew to check early.
I think I am going to put in tim-serts proactively.

Here I am teaching Adam to be as studly as I am:


How in the heck did you guys get the front pressure relief valve in? The spring is a mile long and I can't get the theads to engage. Managed to not shoot the plug to Saturn at least.

I also figured a way to get the plug out. Get a soft piece of wood that is a tight, slightly oversize fit and tap it in. This is a good way to check for freedom of movement before you commit. I ended up havin to polish mine down slightly.

Why aren't there any threads in the other spark-plug hole? That is a second plug hole, isn't it?

For whatever it's worth.......When it comes time to prime your oil pump, here is what I have done in the past on the VW aircooled auto engines. I took an old oil pump cover and drilled a hole on the centerline of the drive gear a little larger than the shaft. It's easy to find the centerline as the pump gear leaves wittness marks on the cover. Then I turned the drive gear around so the shaft sticks out of the hole. (If you use the gear/shaft that will be used in the running engine, do not grab it with a drill motor to turn it for fear of scarring the shaft.) So, either attach a drill to the protruding shaft (sacrificial), or to a coupler of some sort to spin the shaft. A very thin O-ring between the gear and cover will keep the oil from coming out wholesale, but it still tends to be a messy process. Just the same, all the galleys and lifters will have oil available from the first crank of the engine.

Also, the VW manuals that I have, (written on stone tablets) recommend Vaseline as a priming agent, not grease.

Issueing grains of salt here @ Area 51%