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So after two Airventures of broaching this topic with Sonex they finally admit there is a problem with the turbo. I stopped getting full boost intermittently well before Oshkosh Last year and asked about it at Airventure but was told nobody else was having this issue. Now I know that the issue is faulty instruction from the company as to the orientation of the turbo and it's position to the ground when in the three point attitude. I also have an explanation as to why my engine is junk. I hope Sonex offers a fix at no further cost to its customers, To clock the turbo hot section will affect the position of the exhaust stack which means another hole in the cowl. For this I paid $4000 to not fly all summer, this company has a lot of explaining to do.

I completely agree with you Bill.

When I bought the turbo, we were told how it was tested and the company never has its customers test its products. Right.

I am now furious and wondering if I should remove the damned thing and go to a normal aspirated AeroVee, or better yet build a Corvair engine. To go non turbo would be pricey - new prop, next exhaust, etc.

Reclocking my turbo? Really? I did that when I got it and it was not clocked properly.

To say I am disappointed is an understatement. They have a LOT of explaining to do here.

My plane is not flying yet, but I did clock the turbo today with the engine mounted and turbo in place. No big deal loosen the 4 bolts that attach the center section to the exhaust housing and twist it. The exhaust doesn't move. Then I held the big clip and twisted the intake housing took 15 min.

Ed Grasso

wlarson861 wrote: To clock the turbo hot section will affect the position of the exhaust stack which means another hole in the cowl.

The 3 parts of the turbo (compressor, turbine, oil galley) all rotate independently. Why would re-clocking the oil galley affect the location of the turbine section/exhaust stack? I can only think that it would slightly change the oil lines.

I'm not seeing much more to do than buy a different oil, re-clock the turbo and re-bend the oil feed line from the oil pump.

Ryan, I was thinking the same thing. The turbo is attached to the exhaust manifold on the exhaust portion of the turbo assembly, so the geometry of the exhaust pipe shouldn't change. The middle bearing section and intake side may need a slight adjustment depending on which airplane the turbo is being installed on (tri-gear vs. conventional gear may cause a slight change)

I will say that the Service Bulletin recommendations (reclocking the turbo and a different oil) are, to the best of my knowledge, just step #1. I believe a more complete fix is in the works and hopefully we will get more information on that very quickly.

I'm obviously not happy with this either because, just like Bill, my Waiex is down and unflyable until this all gets resolved. That being said, I do appreciate Sonex issuing this SB to alert people of a possible safety issue before someone has a serious problem.

I'll anxiously be awaiting additional information on this situation and potential fixes as they become available.

I'm not seeing much more to do than buy a different oil, re-clock the turbo and re-bend the oil feed line from the oil pump.

After looking at it today I agree it can be re-clocked without changing the exhaust location. How ever I am not in the position of the guys who haven't flown or are getting normal boost. Mine is obviously already coked up. I will have to at least tear it down and replace the bearings. Or install a replacement, whatever Sonex offers.

Do you turbo guys have to idle for a while to cool the oil before shutdown?

Bryan, the new recommendation that just came out with this service Bulletin is that turbo drivers perform a 3 minute cool off idle prior to shutdown. I believe most of us were already doing something similar.

Looking on ebay.com.au is this the oil recommended?
Item number 291875079588

Would hate to buy the wrong oil.

-Brett

You can purchase the brad penn 20/50 oil on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/BPEN-20W50-12-Brad-Penn-Partially-Oil/dp/B004WKH0VQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474163573&sr=8-2&keywords=brad+penn+20w50

Brad Penn is Pennsylvania Crude Oil, you won't find better oil than that. It has a high zinc (ZDDP) content and will damage a cars catalytic converter. The VR1 oil was approved for newer cars so I don't know how they could say it had a high "Zinc" content. You will also notice when you pour in the Brad Penn Oil, it's dark green color. It was hammered into us at A&P School that "Pennsylvania Crude" is the best oil you can get.