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One of the suggestions on the EAA online electrical workshop, is to have the breakers or fuses directly above the switch all in a nice row. One label on the panel works for both the switch AND breaker/fuse.

Because I can be a cheap SOB I'm favoring blade style auto fuses.

So I started checking out different products to make this work. And down the rabbit hole I go! Which seems to be my new hobby. Originally I found a fuse block with blown fuse indicators from the boating/camping world. Very nice. We used a similar type panel in my son's van build. The blown fuse indicator is a very nice feature. But the fuse block isn't really configured in a way that would look nice on an aircraft panel. Then I found individual fuse holders from NAPA that have a blown fuse indicator. Very cool, but stupid expensive - $16+ each. So deeper down the rabbit hole I go! A fuse holder, red LED, and a resistor for the indicator circuit only costs 90 cents. Add a toggle switch and I'm good. My son has a CNC router that we'll use to make an attractive sub panel. The entire switch/ fuse/ indicator panel should be quite afforable.

Problem solved ( I think).

Next step will be to make a mockup and see if I like it.(WHILE building a fuselage)

So I ordered all the pieces to do a mockup of my switch/ fuse/ indicator light. I found some inexpensive toggle switches that are good enough for my experiment. Might not be good enough to install in my plane, but I'll walk that wing when I get to it.

The switches have an on/off escutcheon that is a bit "too much" for me. But the FAA does want labels! So I might keep the "off" portion, and cut off the red "on" portion. Then I thought it would be cool the have a green LED to indicate "on", along with the red LED that indicates "blown fuse". Hmmm...

(I really need to get over this cold and get back to the workshop!!)

Not as cost effective but did you consider toggle breaker switches?

These are kinda cool...

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Switc ... 0BVGGX5QL/

BRS wrote:Not as cost effective but did you consider toggle breaker switches?

Yes I did. I've been in this rabbit hole, part time, for quite awhile. I even contacted DigiKey and Mouser today to see if they had anything interesting. No reply yet. I haven't found anything that I like, or am willing to spend $$$ on. Plus it'll be a fun little distraction when I need a break from deburring.

BRS wrote:These are kinda cool...

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Switc ... 0BVGGX5QL/

They are!!
I have checked out many such switch panels in the boating and camper worlds.

My mock up is almost complete! I'm still waiting for the appropriate resistor for the blown fuse indicator. The puck light is the load for testing purposes (left over from our van build project). A srap of aluminum angle and "presto". I think it has promise. I also think I'm going to cut off the red "on" part of the escutcheon, leave the "off" alone, and add a green LED for "on".

The finished sub panel will most likely be 1/8" thick so I can tap threads for a nicer looking machine screw to install the fuse holder.

I like it!

I've seen blade fuses that indicate when blown. I assume they have the led and resistor internal. But your setup will be nicer over the long run as the common blade fuse can be purchased anywhere.

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton ... -fuses.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-ATC-ID-SK-easyID-Fuse-Assortment/dp/B004AHC322

BRS wrote:I've seen blade fuses that indicate when blown. I assume they have the led and resistor internal. But your setup will be nicer over the long run as the common blade fuse can be purchased anywhere.

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton ... -fuses.pdf

Brock,
That's kind of my thinking, very inexpensive and very available. My next iteration is going to have the fuse holder in the vertical position with a red and a green LED just to the right of the fuseholder. Less panel space required. The bank of switches/fuses/LEDs should look pretty nice.

Also considering these switches...