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Hi ya'll,

I have a note here I made on my plans that the aft side of the stick holes should be 5/8" further aft than the 7 29/64" shown in the plans. Alas, I didn't keep good notes on who said this ;-). Have others encountered stick travel interfering with the seat pan without this change? I'm considering just making that change now while I cut the pans from the raw sheet.

Any advice appreciated.

Kevin

That's too easy. I recommend doing a perfect job to print while it is easy and then hacking later. You can't break tradition!

On the other hand if you can wait I will measure what I did.

Bryan Cotton wrote:That's too easy. I recommend doing a perfect job to print while it is easy and then hacking later. You can't break tradition!

On the other hand if you can wait I will measure what I did.

ooh - yah - if you could take a look at yours that would be awesome. I promise to apply hacks somewhere else... ;-)

Kevin

Hi kevin,
A little extra on the cut out not going to hurt. After we built our seatpan, at oshkosh sonex flight line a couple sonex guys suggested to us to double up on the thickness, so we added between the hinges , bottom and back. Really stiffened it up. Standing in it, and putting two 200 lb ers in it no prob, very sturdy. We also added an angle along rt side underneath, for flex, in ref to the dynon roll servo, the arm is EL extra Long, so it comes close to the seat pan.
Did you get yours tire rims seated?
Good luck!

WaiexN143NM
Michael

Kevin,
If I measure correctly my holes are 8 and 87/128" long. I did not open the holes at the front, just the back.

Thanks Bryan and Michael! (As for my wheels - I need to go to the junkyard and find something of suitable diameter so I can use my press to push the races in a bit more before I bother putting in tubes/tires). Progress!

Tomorrow I'll go out and buy a ruler that shows 1/128" inches ;-).

I would recommend using the metric numbers provided on the prints. It's so much easier. If we're looking at just adding a little extra to the cutout you probably do not need to worry about getting down to the 1/128" of an inch. I would use his numbers a reference but it does not have to be exact.

Mike,
This is engineers week. It has to be to the 128th of an inch. You don't need a 128th ruler Kevin - 1/64 will do. Then you can estimate.

Actually I thought it was funny they called out 29/64" and then I had to take an inch out. It is like they looked at the throw only on the front side of the stick.

On my next Waiex I may shorten the seat pan a bit on the segment between the short horizontal part at the bottom and the bend at the back of the spar tunnel. At least 1/8", maybe 1/4". That will help give clearance over the stick assembly.

To measure the hole I first marked lines parallel with the front and back of the hole, then put a piece of tape on the seat pan and transferred the lines to the tape. Stuck that on the ruler and it was just shy of 8 11/16", or 87/128. This got around the problem of the stick being in the way and the seat pan being bent.

Coming from a recovering perfectionist and measuring every thing to within .005", I understand. I look at parts I am making that are .010" out and contemplate making them over. Anyone who is interested there is probably a second airplane worth of parts in my scrap bin.

As it has been said we are building a plane not a watch.

lstinthot wrote:I would recommend using the metric numbers provided on the prints. It's so much easier. If we're looking at just adding a little extra to the cutout you probably do not need to worry about getting down to the 1/128" of an inch. I would use his numbers a reference but it does not have to be exact.

Heh. I was joking about the 1/128" thing. I'm surprised the sonex CAD spits out so many 1/64ths even - I think their eyes must be better than mine ;-). I know on my RV it was very rare to see anything less than 1/32".

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