SonexBuilders.net

Hey all,
I have seen a couple references to rattle can Krylon paint jobs, especially on minimally painted airplanes. Anybody have any thoughts on this? I will only be painting the fiberglass parts and it seems viable, though the cowl is sort of a big part.

Here is an example of a rattlecan paint job with vinyl markings.

That looks pretty good. I also saw this one in the Sonex completions:

A couple more questions for the rattle-canners:
1) krylon seems to be the popular choice. Why not some other brand?
2) how many cans?
3) prep - did you prime at all, or just bondo-scratch-squirt?

Bryan Cotton wrote:A couple more questions for the rattle-canners:
1) krylon seems to be the popular choice. Why not some other brand?
2) how many cans?
3) prep - did you prime at all, or just bondo-scratch-squirt?

I used Rustoleum.
The red is lacquer with gloss clear coat. http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-cat ... quer-spray

The black/white is high performance enamel. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalo ... amel-spray

Lots of cans of the lacquer on the cowl and tips (maybe a dozen or so). I think only a couple cans of black and white. I did have some issues with the enamel. When I shot the black over the white I got a lot of "curdling". I may not have let the white cure long enough.

I used gray sandable primer for the fiberglass parts. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalo ... imer-spray

I used self etching primer from the auto store on the aluminum. Scuffed the aluminum with scotchbrite pads.

I'm right there with Charlie... Rustoleum Metallic rattle cans from Home Depot. I used NAPA 7220 primer on all parts, a few coats of color, then Rustoleum clear to cover.

Not as durable as a "real" aircraft paint, but much cheaper and easier to touch up. I'm overall happy with the way mine turned out, given the small amount of money I spent.




If you're going to mostly polish but just paint a few pieces, it's a good option!

I think I am sold on the rattle can route. I took a liking to them on my former 1946 C140 project for priming old parts. Much more convenient than mixing small batches and cleaning up.

If anybody thinks I (we) are nuts to rattle can vs real spraying, I would welcome your thoughts too.

radfordc wrote: I did have some issues with the enamel. When I shot the black over the white I got a lot of "curdling". I may not have let the white cure long enough.

I had the same issues when I started painting with Rustoleum. Per the instructions on the can, you either have to paint additional coats withing a specified period of time (a few hours) or you should wait at least 48 hours [I think that's what the can says] before recoating OR before adding a clear coat. I was painting the color, then putting on the top coat a day later. Results: extreme orange peeling! Had to use paint stripper and start over. I got ahold of Rustoleum and they said the clear coat (especially) has chemicals that will react with the paint and orange peel any paint that is not COMPLETELY cured. So on my next paint jobs I primed, waited a couple of days, color coated multiple coats all in one night, and then I waited a WEEK before I clear coated. If I needed to do any sanding after the color coats, I waited a WEEK before recoating, and then waited another WEEK before clear coating. It's worked so far.

I know of at least one builder (I know there are more) that didn't clear coat at all. They just used car polish after painting, and that shines it up and adds some protection. They were happy with the results.

Mike Smith

All,
I painted a few cars as a kid, both lacquer and enamel. Lacquer got a lot of wet sanding between coats and then it was buffed out. Enamel I usually left it as sprayed, especially if I did a good job. Has anybody buffed out rustoleum before? I only used it to paint engines and stuff.

Lol, Mike Farley has been talking with me about Rustoleum paint as well the last few days - the wet sanding and buffing to be specific. Hopefully Mike will chime in. He was not having good results with the clear and trying to buff it out.

Bryan I too have painted several cars (more recently using base coat / clear coat urethane on two and single stage urethane on another). Those paints are two part and harden really well and lend themselves to wet sanding and polishing/buffing. I find the 1x paints like Rustoleum are soft paints when you try to buff them out. When you think about it, the paint will lift if you wipe it with lacquer thinner...but your mileage may vary. The nice thing about 1x (1part) rattle can paints are that the paint is cheap, easy to apply, and if you don't like the results easy to apply another coat.