Frozen Trim Cable

[mike.smith]

I've never had this issue in past winters, but I have it on every flight now, in cold weather. My trim cable has been freezing solid. Even if it works on the ground (only if it's not too cold), once I get flying in the cold air it freezes up. There is obviously water somewhere in the cable housing, but I'll need to wait for warmer weather to try to blow it out. Has this happened to anyone else? I've been setting neutral trim right after takeoff so it doesn't freeze up on some other position.

If you live in cold climes, check your trim!

[Rynoth]

Would it be possible to puncture a drain hole in the jacket of the cable at the lowest point? Would still probably require you to remove the cable and clear the water first, but might help going forward.

[radfordc]

Here is a device that lets you force lubricant into the cable and displace water.

https://www.ridersdomain.com/motorcycle ... 84EALw_wcB

[mike.smith]

Would it be possible to puncture a drain hole in the jacket of the cable at the lowest point? Would still probably require you to remove the cable and clear the water first, but might help going forward.

The possible low point is inside the fuselage and just about impossible to get to. Once warmer weather comes around I think I'll have a better chance of getting the water out. I'm wondering what I can do in the future to try to keep the water out. Adding lubricants is not necessarily a good thing. They pick up dirt and particulates, and prematurely wear out the inner Teflon.

[Bryan Cotton]

Can you pull the cable out? A couple days hanging from one end in the basement would probably do wonders.

[Klimek]

Is the aft end of the cable housing accessible? If so a compressed air nozzle can be used to blow
out any water that might be present. Sealing the air gun with some tape will force most of the air
through the housing and out the front. It can be blown out front to back which would be preferable.
Use a paint gun air / water filter in line. You can finish with a can of compressed air / co2 used for cleaning electronic equipment, which is mostly devoid of moisture.
Lastly, there probably available somewhere a type of rubber boot or one adapted to fit over the end of the housing to keep the moisture out..
I'm just buttin' in.

Frank
ONEX 090
Installing NEW FUEL TANK (A PITA!)
N1970T
AeroVee 2180 and running great
Tail Dragger
One trip to Osh '17
Steam gauges
At KFYV

[Gordon]

Replace Fuel Tank...........??

Frank...Onex 090. I saw at the bottom of your post you are replacing the fuel tank in you Onex. I was wondering why.......? Is their some issue with these tanks that I don't know about?

I saw you and talked to you at Osh 17.......nice airplane.......I have MANY pictures.

My Onex should fly by the end of the summer.

Gordon.......Onex.....Hummel 2400

[Area 51%]

Early VW Beetles have a single wire cable that operates the heaters. There is a seal that installs over the wire and onto the guide tube. If the dimensions are close, they might make a good way to keep out the juices.

MidAmerica Motorworks part numbers are; 379-187 and 318-165

[Klimek]

Gordon,
I'm replacing my tank because of fuel leaking around the mounded in fittings.
After Oshkosh last year both fittings on the bottom were leaking. I attempted
A repair with a product by 3M which held for a month or so. Finding the floor
Covered in fuel prior to a flight convinced me I wanted a new tank with the
Oops fittings. Luckily when I installed the glare shield i enlarged the holes in the glare where
The tank straps, front side/top firewall angles bolt up. All 8 of these bolts stay in when the glare shield is removed. Getting to the top, front
Bolts is impossible after the glare shield is installed and front bottom skin is on.
Also the glare shield is attached by screws and nut plates, not rivets.
IF the fitting o-rings ever leak they can be tightened or replaced easily.
Back to your question, i felt the holes, after drilling the fittings out, were marginal
At best and could compromise the o-ring seal.
Maybe we can meet somewhere after we are both flying, flying again.
I'm at KFYV hangaed with another Sonex and a 172.
Folding wing help!
Frank
Onex090

[n502pd]

Referencing the frozen trim cable, lowly thought of and often missed used WD-40 was designed to keep moisture off of rocket skins during and after loading with liquid oxygen, that would cause layers of frost to form. Scientists found that spraying WD-40 on the skins mostly prevented frost forming. The 'WD' in WD-40 stood for water displacement. And I feel that it could help you.

Now here is what I am suggesting...connect the spray tube from WD-40 to forward end of your trim cable and seal it. spray WD into the cable and try to get it to dribble out the aft end. After it dries, it mostly disappears so I think dirt collection wont be a problem. You may have to remove the core wire to get WD to pass thru the length.

Next, make a cover nipple for the ends by taking two or three progressively larger diameter shrink tubing lengths...maybe 6 inches long?... and slipping them over the cable ends, one after another after shrinking each in turn, If the tubing dose not close over the core wire, just pinch the side of the shrink tubing a bit to make a good seal. There should be no increase in movement effort, and you don't have to hunt for a special product.

Just a wild thought!!