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I'm installing the canopy and trying to decide if I am going to use AAP-44 rivets per the plans, or the optional AN526C-632R8 machine screws. Can anyone share what you chose to use, why you chose that method, and if you would do it any differently if you were to do it again. Thank you.

Just my two cents here - I used screws to install my canopy. The reason why is if I need to remove it no drill gets near the canopy, and I was told pulling the rivets could induce stress.

Your mileage may vary.

Same reasons here. Takes a little more effort to tap the holes but it's worth it.

N351D flying
N951X ( reserved )

I drilled and tapped all 3 bows and side rails, I did not countersink just used flat screws. I put heat shrink tubing on the bows first and glued the canopy on also with Sikaflex after using sikaflex primer which also looks good. My reasoning is there is no single stress point. I also put a small piece of "bungee rubber" on the safety cable so there is no sudden stop when opening. Early days yet, only 50hrs but so far so good.

I riveted because that's what the plans showed. I have replaced my canopy once and it was not a big deal to drill out the rivets. I don't like tapping thin wall tubing. Eventually they tend to strip. So either way works. If you rivet, use a hand puller; don't use a rivet gun. You have much more control with the hand squeezer.

Thanks for the responses guys. Mike brought up my biggest concern with screws. Tapping the thin wall tubing and no locktite sounds like a recipe for loosening and stripped screws. Can anyone who used screws comment further on that? Thanks.

My screws have not loosened much and I check them regularly. I now have 53 hours on my Sonex.


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I used screws for the same reasons as stated by others.375 hours and they have not loosened. I have had to tighten a couple on the cross bows but the lower sides have stayed put.

First Sonex canopy cracked over first night. Todd's canopy bonded with Sika Flex, No holes. Used short sections of 1/8" wall split tubing spaced along tubular bows to give the material room to accommodate expansion, removed those after bonding between them and filled in with more Sika Flex. Modified latch to eliminate notch for that as well. Now about 310 hours on tach. No cracks has spent time at -20 F and left in hot sun.

David A. Sonex TD #1327

What is the best adhesive for bonding the canopy edges within the canopy aluminum side channels?

And how deeply into the steel side channels should the canopy extend (all the way to the bottom or halfway or...)? [I ask because the curved canopy (especially if the plexiglas is not more or less new and very flexible) "doesn't like" the perfectly straight channels.]

Thank you

Peter Schwenn

Xenos':
N32XS @ KCGS (912iS being installed)
N16XN under construction

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