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I didn't want to hijack the canopy thread, so I will start a new one.

I am working on the phenolic strike plates that go in the left upper longeron of the front fuselage.

How much, if any, play in the slots is needed? Or should they be perfect to avoid the latch catching?

Probably overthinking this but I was looking at this over the weekend and figured I would ask.....

blue skies!


Robbie
Sonex 1517

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It's been a little while since I made those up Robbie, but from what I remember I kept the gap in the phenolic bars pretty snug to the "hooks" on the canopy rail. At first there was a little trial and error to get them to fit comfortably; I think I ended up using some sandpaper and opening up so the gap in the phenolic blocks is a few thousands bigger than the hooks on the canopy.

More important than the gaps, from what I remember, is the fit and tightness of those canopy hooks as you push the canopy slide forward (my terminology stinks, but I'm sure you know what I mean). When you insert the hooks through the upper longerons and through the phenolic block, then push the slide forward, you want to make sure there's no gap between those hooks and the phenolic blocks that would allow the canopy to move up and down. I recall filing away a little bit of material on those canopy hooks, but went very slowly to ensure there was a tight fit when the canopy was latched closed. As long as that's done, you'll have a nice, secure canopy.

I hope this helps a little! This was just my two cents of course; the finish on my canopy sucks so maybe you'd better ask someone else! :mrgreen:

Thanks Mike! That is exactly what I needed.


Robbie
Sonex 1517

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On the subject of the strike plates, can anyone suggest a method for cutting the notch for the canopy latch in them? I can trace the notch on the longeron on them but am puzzled as to how I can cut the hole/notch in them.

Thanks!

Jim Cunningham
Normal, IL

MichaelFarley56 wrote:More important than the gaps, from what I remember, is the fit and tightness of those canopy hooks as you push the canopy slide forward (my terminology stinks, but I'm sure you know what I mean). When you insert the hooks through the upper longerons and through the phenolic block, then push the slide forward, you want to make sure there's no gap between those hooks and the phenolic blocks that would allow the canopy to move up and down. I recall filing away a little bit of material on those canopy hooks, but went very slowly to ensure there was a tight fit when the canopy was latched closed. As long as that's done, you'll have a nice, secure canopy.

I agree! The width of the slot didn't matter much. In fact, since the canopy throws over on a pivot point opposite the slot, a little slot width helps. But the tightness of the slide as described above is spot on. It all worked great when I was test fitting. Once I got the canopy finally installed I could not get the slide to go all the way forward. I spent a LOT of time with files and a Dremel to get it to work right.

I documented that! Page 28 of my thread:
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=578&start=270

Don't try to get the strike plate and phenolic blocks too perfect and tight. The issue is in the summer time, the canopy assembly heats up and expands. When that happens, that sliding mechanism binds up and you can't even slide it all the way shut. It's going to be a trial and error deal for you, till you find the "sweet spot".

Lorin
140 hours on my Waiex/Jabiru3300 with Bing

JimCunningham wrote:On the subject of the strike plates, can anyone suggest a method for cutting the notch for the canopy latch in them? I can trace the notch on the longeron on them but am puzzled as to how I can cut the hole/notch in them.

I used this jigsaw technique for the strike plates and longerons:

I used the series of connected pilot holes then a flat file to smooth out the slot.