SonexBuilders.net

Hi guys

Could someone clue me in on the best way to cut the 3/16" angle for the stabilizer spars? I'm taking a chunk of angle and practicing first. Do you guys prefer a band saw? Table saw? Jig saw? And what blades worked best? I'm trying to find a resource for learning about all this but I can't seem to find anything.

I was told some of you guys also use a scotchbrite wheel. Is the for finishing the edges of the angle? What is the recommended finish for the edges of the angle?

Sorry about all the questions, I can't seem to find the information I'm looking for.

Mike

Hi Mike.
All three methods will work for cutting aluminum .I personally use a table saw and a miter saw with an 80 tooth carbide blade,60 would work just fine .Same would go for the band saw the more teeth the nicer the cut and certainly more control.
The scotch brite wheel will save you tons of time getting rid of the stress risers created by the cutting of the aluminum.Polish until they are gone.
Here is the EAA webinar site.Lots of good instruction vids here.
Godd luck.
Mike

Thanks Mike, I'll pick up a new blade and give the table saw a try.
Mike

Hi Mike

Welcome to the Sonex Community! Sonex Aircraft LLC. has a series of videos available from their website. The one on cutting aluminum with a bandsaw is here http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1599932073


Recently we formed the Sonex Builders and Pilots Foundation as a type club for the aircraft, and our goal is to help new builders just like you. Membership is free - visit us at http://sonexfoundation.com

We have a new builder page at http://sonexfoundation.com/New_Builders.html

If you look on our http://sonexfoundation.com/Tips___Tricks.html page, we have links to many of the same videos Sonex points you to. We also are trying to provide links to local builders, so you would have someone to visit and check out a project in progress.

I am building Sonex 1517 from sub kits, and have been at it just over two years. I have completed the tail and the wings, and am just starting the fuselage. While I am not in Wisconsin any more (grew up in Madison) I am in Chicagoland and would be happy to have you visit if you're ever down this way.

Again, welcome to the community and I think you'll find the plans to be extremely detailed and straightforward, rich in detail, and easy to use with practice.

blue skies
Robbie Culver
Sonex 1517

Question for you sheetmetal/extrusion experts – what are the limits of using the router for cuts…

Partially because I suppose I'm just lazy, and partially because I know my limits in attention to detail in repetitive tasks, I've been thinking about adopting the router technique some folks have used (primarily) for cutting out rib-blanks…

My table router with a trim bit seems up to the task in aluminum up to 1/8 at least assuming a good template ( have a bandsaw, but it ain’t my favorite tool – also miter saw for simple chops), – so, sorta just thinking out loud, but with the proper bits for both my trim router and the table router, it looks like I could spend a little extra time and care getting the templates right for the many Sonex shapes developed from extrusions and then turn out as many identical ribs, brackets, attach points or other gizmos as may be required… then follow with the vixen file, 3M wheel, whatever may be required for the finish.

Curious, geriatric minds want to know…

Thanks…

-- Larry

I've had great success with using a flush cut bit in the router to cut out the wing rib blanks. My experience was that I could only cut 4 to 5 blanks at a time.

One other area I used the router was to trim the leg off of an angle such as the 3/16" angle used for the spar in the horizontal stabilizer...just be very careful and it gives great results.

Other than that, I pretty much stick to the band saw and files for all my sheet metal work.

falvarez wrote:I've had great success with using a flush cut bit in the router to cut out the wing rib blanks. My experience was that I could only cut 4 to 5 blanks at a time.

One other area I used the router was to trim the leg off of an angle such as the 3/16" angle used for the spar in the horizontal stabilizer...

In my practicing I haven't tried anything that thick yet, and I hadn't thought about it for trimming the angle off... guess that should work very well

Hmmmm... thanks...

-- Larry

I should probably clarify...I rough cut the leg off the angle using the band saw...got it to within 1/16" - 1/8" of being flush. Then I ran the flush cut router bit to remove what was left...It gave a smooth surface and you almost couldn't tell a leg used to be there.

I think if you don't rough cut the angle part first you would likely run a big risk of getting kickback when using the router.

Thanks for the advice guys! Appreciate the feedback.

Mike