SonexBuilders.net

Hi all,
Has anyone replaced the cup races on the 5 in Tri -star wheels ? Is there a special tool or procedure to get them out? The races are sold separate. $ 1.85.
I called Azusa but got a millennial hire, didn’t know and didn’t care.

WaiexN143NM
Michael

I believe the tool is available at level 9 on the World of Warcraft site.

Hi randy,
Thanks for the info . I’ll look up that website.
Hope all is well with you, your engine and plane building.
If you attend Oshkosh this year I owe you a beverage of choice.

WaiexN143NM
Michael

WaiexN143NM wrote:Hi all,
Has anyone replaced the cup races on the 5 in Tri -star wheels ? Is there a special tool or procedure to get them out? The races are sold separate. $ 1.85.
I called Azusa but got a millennial hire, didn’t know and didn’t care.

WaiexN143NM
Michael

The tool will be far more expensive than a new set of wheels. But you can loan it to all of us. Thanks in advance.

WaiexN143NM wrote: I called Azusa but got a millennial hire, didn’t know and didn’t care.

Area 51% wrote:I believe the tool is available at level 9 on the World of Warcraft site.

This site isn't Reddit and it still has the bulletin-board feel of a community with a common purpose. Please don't toss around insults (tongue in cheek or not) directed towards newer members of it.

Ryan,
Please don’t tell me how to post, what to post, or the context of my posts.
Your free to post as you wish. I won’t judge.
I made a factual statement. The customer service rep, a young male wasn’t interested in helping.
I was going to buy a new wheel with bearing races from their website. Instead will buy the Azusa wheel
from Sonex.
A little more money, but at least the customer service is friendly and cares.

WaiexN143NM
MICHAEL

Hi Michael, I have replaced the bearings without having to reach level 9 on WOW. I think I used a drift that I ground away to form a hook to get in behind the bearing. I don't recall having any trouble getting them out. Another method that might work is to heat the wheel in an oven at around 350 F. I reckon the bearings would just about fall out. You won't get as many burnt fingers from the first method.

Peter

Hi peter,
Good to hear from you. We’re you referring to the bearings or the races? The races are in pretty tight. In fact, it’s been posted on here to check them , especially when new, to seat them deeper in their hole. We use a hyd press , it’s goes easily, you can feel and see easily in the press when they bottom out. They’re still is about a 1\8 in gap from the bottom when it’s down fully.
Doing the annual\condition inspection, we noticed that the left tire when put back on and the axel nut finger tightened to correct position, the tire had some play when rocked. We then put our emergency spare that’s totally complete(hyd disc plate , bolts, tube, tire, wheel, & pumped to 50 psi ) and ready to go , on with new bearings. No more play. We looked good at the original tire, wheel, bearings and races. Nothing to notice.
I ‘m looking over the internet, for a bearing removal tool.
But as randy jokingly said, and johns wishing, I don’t think I will find a reasonably priced tool.
Hence will order a new wheel, with races installed and new bearings, a little over $40.
That one will become the new spare.
Added:upon searching the internet& amazon, I found some go plus 16 piece bearing race removing kits. $75. Looks like it will work. I’ll order one. If it works i’ll Be happy to loan it out to members of sbpf for postage. You may get your wish John!
WaiexN143NM
Michael

Hi Mike, I was talking about removing the race. At the time I didn't have to press at least one of the races out because it just fell out - the housing was worn. The rest came out easily. I couldn't find any sealed tapered roller bearings at the time so machined the wheels and fitted slightly larger OD sealed ball bearings, thus reducing the wheel maintenance from cleaning and repacking the bearings every time I pulled something apart to "yep, that's OK". I was also trying to reduce wheel wobble, which I did. I didn't know at the time about the trick of seating the bearings properly. $40 sounds pretty good for the Azusa wheel, but I don't think you get any more than you pay for.

Peter

Hi all,
Also, a few other items addressed during the condition inspection. Check your bolts at the top of the gear leg to motor mount. Ours needed a little tightening. W e had put the fly boy accessories g ear leg stiffeners on, th en wrapped in glass to help with gear shimmy. Helped out nicely. But we then lost our jacking point. We had purchased a bogart gear leg bottle jack, but with the gear stiffener that can’t be used. So I made up some 1/8 in steel angle ‘L’ brackets that mount just under the lower axel tube and bolt to the 2 bottom bolts of the Tracy O’Brien backing plate that is welded to the original Sonex axel. I also drilled a hole in the jacking pad to be used for a caribiner hook. Will make a ‘Y’ rope harness tow rope , so the plane could be gently towed out of the way, runway & taxiway, if need be. Will be easy to jack up the plane now. Use a small floor jack, scissors jack, or we ar e making a lite weight jacking handle similar to peter anson’s(thanks peter) . The check valve brake bleeders are sure nice when bleeding the brakes. You can do it alone if need be. Purchased at Merle’s auto in Tucson. Possibly autozone, O’Riellys, or pep boys may carry them.
I’ll post about the bearing race puller when we get it. New bearings and races are cheap from Azusa. The new bearings we used had the molded in rubber dust covers. You still use the thin flat dust washer with it. I was worried about the axel cotter pin hole, but it still lined up nicely.
Added: peter ansons neat Sonex stuff. Www.ansoneng.com
WaiexN143NM
MICHAEL