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Ground block part number
Posted:
Tue Jan 05, 2016 5:36 pm
by Sonex1243
Anyone have a part number for a brass ground block to use on the wing tip spar web to ground the landing light and the nav/position/strobe light assy with the fast on spade type connectors? My alternate plan is to use a 10/32 screw mounted as a post with ring type terminals to make the ground connections.
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Tue Jan 05, 2016 6:24 pm
by saddler
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Tue Jan 05, 2016 7:03 pm
by tonyr
If you are using the Airframe as your return path, you are probably better off just running the extra couple of ground wires back to the common firewall ground block.
Otherwise you are relying on the clean bonding of all the parts from the wing tip to the spar root and the fuse angles, wing bolts etc.
Over time any corrosion in these areas will degrade the return path resistance and possibly cause issues later on.
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Tue Jan 05, 2016 7:07 pm
by mike.smith
tonyr wrote:If you are using the Airframe as your return path, you are probably better off just running the extra couple of ground wires back to the common firewall ground block.
Otherwise you are relying on the clean bonding of all the parts from the wing tip to the spar root and the fuse angles, wing bolts etc.
Over time any corrosion in these areas will degrade the return path resistance and possibly cause issues later on.
Absolutely! Grounding issues are THE number one cause of electrical and avionics issues, and they can be very hard to track down. Running every device back to a common ground block is worth the few ounces in added weight.
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Tue Jan 05, 2016 8:21 pm
by Bryan Cotton
I go to the same church as Mike and Tony on this one. Especially with modern LED lights the wire gauge is so small anyway.
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Tue Jan 05, 2016 11:50 pm
by Sonex1243
This could get interesting!
The AeroLED wing tip light wiring diagram has you ground the light mount and light ground wire to structure close to the light for minimum RFI interference. They also show the shielded power wire braided shield for the light assembly grounded at both ends of the cable run, one end would begin at the tip close to the light. The duck works LED light could also be grounded at the tip, per duck works.
This made it easy, so I thought, because I would only have to run the nav, strobe and landing light power wires, the strobe sync wire and wire shield on each wing back to the fuselage using a single five pin molex connector.
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Wed Jan 06, 2016 11:36 am
by thad14433
This maybe what your thinking of, the bolts go thru the firewall and you have a ground block on both sides.
http://www.bandc.aero/groundblock2424-t ... llkit.aspx
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Wed Jan 06, 2016 7:29 pm
by mike.smith
That's what I have all my grounds going to, but I think the original question was about a ground connection to attach to at the wingtip?
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Thu Jan 07, 2016 7:47 pm
by Sonex1243
Both ground blocks are exactly what I was looking for. Will be re-thinking the wing tip grounds and running them all to a central ground as everyone has suggested. If so, it will entail a little reverse engineering on the right wing as everything has already been run and the wing closed up. I did run conduit through the nose rib tooling holes, so, re-threading wire should be relatively easy once the leading edge is cut open for the landing light and tip cap left off.
Re: Ground block part number
Posted:
Fri Jan 08, 2016 10:02 am
by Rynoth
Sonex1243 wrote: re-threading wire should be relatively easy once the leading edge is cut open for the landing light and tip cap left off.
One good method for fishing wire through the conduit would be to attach a piece of string to the end of an existing wire, and pull that wire through. Then attach both the old and new wire to the string, and pull them both together using the string. Just overlap the ends of wire/string by 2-3 inches and wrap electrical tape tightly around the overlap them to keep the diameter small enough to pull through the conduit.