Favorite Features or Mods

[Waiex 49]

It is important to use the right tubing. Clear fuel line is the only thing that should be used. After 2 years mine is still as supple as a baby's behind :-)


Hi Mike,
My fuel sight tube was the correct type of tubing.
It was about five years old and going bad.
I found it odd that the exposed parts were fine while the sections behind the panel were going bad.
Nothing wrong with the sight tube, but it wasn't for me.

Don

[mike.smith]

It is important to use the right tubing. Clear fuel line is the only thing that should be used. After 2 years mine is still as supple as a baby's behind :-)


Hi Mike,
My fuel sight tube was the correct type of tubing.
It was about five years old and going bad.
I found it odd that the exposed parts were fine while the sections behind the panel were going bad.
Nothing wrong with the sight tube, but it wasn't for me.

Don

Maybe a lot of heat behind the panel?

[sonex1374]

Favorite Features, Mods, Adds and Options on Sonex 1374:

Plans Features:

1) Acro Ailerons: These rock! They feel great and have nice control harmony. Highly recommended!

2) Sport Trainer configuration: Dual stick and center throttle/mixture/flaps/brakes. Puts all controls in the center (minus the trim lever) where both occupants can reach them.

3) Standard Trim Tab and Lever: Very easy and responsive. Love it! I use center for takeoff, half up on landing when I reduce power abeam the numbers, and full up on base. Simple and quick to adjust.


Mods:

1) Larger Tires: Allow effortless operations off dirt, gravel and grass. Mine are only half-worn after 200 hrs and approx. 400 landings. These mount on the stock Sonex wheels as well.

Tires: McCreary Air Hawk (Aircraft Spruce PN 06-07710) 5.00x5 6-ply
Tubes: Aero Classic Leak Guard (Aircraft Spruce PN 06-00755) 5.00x5

2) Hydraulic brakes: I use Great Plains hydraulic breaks with a single mater cylinder attached to the stock(ish...) brake lever.

3) Ball-link steering arm and Sonex machined tailwheel: The stock steering arm is non-adjustable and can wallow out the hole in the rudder drive plate. It's easy to fabricate a ball link arm using some chromoly tube, cut off bolt ends (or threaded rod) welded inside the ends, and a couple of rod ends. Total cost is around $20. I also use the Sonex machined 4" tailwheel. This gets a bit extra ground clearance but maintains use of the inexpensive 4" tailwheels ($25 each, vs $100 each for 6" wheels). It's lighter as well. Well done Sonex!

4) Removable Panel: The entire center section of my panel removes with 8 screws. This provides access to the wiring without diving head first under the panel. It's also simple to make major changes to the installed equipment - simply make a new center insert with the new configuration.

Engine Mods:

1) Hinged Cooling Baffles on the Jabiru baffles: This allows full access to the spark plugs and you'll never need to remove the entire baffles for routine maintenance.

2) Rounded intake edges: Epoxy filler and fiberglass was used on the backside of the intake openings to reduce turbulence of the cooling air into the upper plenum. This results in greater pressure in the plenum and better cooling.

3) Enlarged cooling air exits in bottom of cowling: I opened the exits approx. 4-6 sq inches per exit and that has kept my engine temps within range during all flight regimes, and all outside temps. It really has been the key to keeping the engine cool and happy.

4) K&N Air Filter: Ditch the stock paper filter for a much better K&N. They breath easier, and can be cleaned and reused.

5) AeroInjector: I use it, and I like it. I have the standard per-plans setup, using a pull cable to the Sonex throttle quadrant. My fuel system is simple and only uses a billet 40 micron filter (no gascolator).

6) Oil recovery system: I fabricated a separator system to recover the oil mist blown out the breather. This has cut my oil consumption to about 0.25 qt per oil change (25 hrs).


Adds and Options:

1) Gear Leg Stiffeners: Simple strips of wood attached to the gear leg cut down the resonance frequency when taxiing at gross weight (ie no shimmy). They add that extra little bit of smoothness on landing too, preventing you from getting bounced back into the air after a not-so-perfect landing (really only a problem when heavy).

2) Fiberglass Intersection fairings: simple to make and compliment the lines around the gear leg fairings. Mine totally enclose the brake hardware as well.

3) Low-fuel warning camera: Inexpensive backup camera mounted under the panel "looking" a the tank sidewall. This way I can "see" the fuel level in the tank due to the translucent nature of the plastic tank. Comes in handy for confirming the last 4 gallons of fuel, and whether you can breath easy or divert immediately for landing.

4) Dynon Skyview: Love the simplicity of the system, and very capable. It also allows for angle of attack for next to nothing (literally pennies to add this feature to a Skyview), and works fantastic with the Red Cube flow transducer. I routinely compare my calculated fuel burned with the fuel added at the pump and it is ALWAYS within 0.1-0.2 gal! Best of all it works with 100LL and car gas, including ethanol, so no worries there.

5) Koger sun shade: Expensive, but oh-so-nice! They recommend the "Small Universal". However, if Koger was to make the small universal 4" longer (add one more bow plus enough track and material) it would be perfect!

6) Electric Seat Warmers: Amazon sells a universal car seta kit for under $50 that includes everything needed for 2 seats. The power requirements are low enough (3-5 amps per seat) that just about any engine can keep up with it.


For more info, check out my website for all the details! http://www.sonex604.com

Jeff

[vwglenn]

3) Enlarged cooling air exits in bottom of cowling: I opened the exits approx. 4-6 sq inches per exit and that has kept my engine temps within range during all flight regimes, and all outside temps. It really has been the key to keeping the engine cool and happy.

Seems like an easy mod. My 3300 runs pretty well but I can only climb about 1000 feet before I have to nose over and cool things off. I'm going to have to measure and see if the ratio is anywhere near the 1 to 1.5 it's Joe mentioned in another post. I suspect my outlets are too small. This was the coolest (pun?) bit of info I picked up while at OSH this year.

[radfordc]

All the cockpit ventilation you can manage. Mine had the stock openings below the windshield, two "eyeball" vents in the windshield, and a canopy hold open device that could be used while taxiing.

Sun shades overhead...I used the plastic "static cling" type sold in auto parts stores. Cheap and effective.

[Ercoupechris]

Jeff,

Nice to have met you at Oshkosh. Regarding the tires you used, did you weigh them to see what the difference was between the stock tires and tubes and the ones you used?

I run out 500X5 on my Ercoupe nose wheel in 4 ply in the same brand.

Favorite Features, Mods, Adds and Options on Sonex 1374:

Plans Features:

1) Acro Ailerons: These rock! They feel great and have nice control harmony. Highly recommended!

2) Sport Trainer configuration: Dual stick and center throttle/mixture/flaps/brakes. Puts all controls in the center (minus the trim lever) where both occupants can reach them.

3) Standard Trim Tab and Lever: Very easy and responsive. Love it! I use center for takeoff, half up on landing when I reduce power abeam the numbers, and full up on base. Simple and quick to adjust.


Mods:

1) Larger Tires: Allow effortless operations off dirt, gravel and grass. Mine are only half-worn after 200 hrs and approx. 400 landings. These mount on the stock Sonex wheels as well.

Tires: McCreary Air Hawk (Aircraft Spruce PN 06-07710) 5.00x5 6-ply
Tubes: Aero Classic Leak Guard (Aircraft Spruce PN 06-00755) 5.00x5

2) Hydraulic brakes: I use Great Plains hydraulic breaks with a single mater cylinder attached to the stock(ish...) brake lever.

3) Ball-link steering arm and Sonex machined tailwheel: The stock steering arm is non-adjustable and can wallow out the hole in the rudder drive plate. It's easy to fabricate a ball link arm using some chromoly tube, cut off bolt ends (or threaded rod) welded inside the ends, and a couple of rod ends. Total cost is around $20. I also use the Sonex machined 4" tailwheel. This gets a bit extra ground clearance but maintains use of the inexpensive 4" tailwheels ($25 each, vs $100 each for 6" wheels). It's lighter as well. Well done Sonex!

4) Removable Panel: The entire center section of my panel removes with 8 screws. This provides access to the wiring without diving head first under the panel. It's also simple to make major changes to the installed equipment - simply make a new center insert with the new configuration.

Engine Mods:

1) Hinged Cooling Baffles on the Jabiru baffles: This allows full access to the spark plugs and you'll never need to remove the entire baffles for routine maintenance.

2) Rounded intake edges: Epoxy filler and fiberglass was used on the backside of the intake openings to reduce turbulence of the cooling air into the upper plenum. This results in greater pressure in the plenum and better cooling.

3) Enlarged cooling air exits in bottom of cowling: I opened the exits approx. 4-6 sq inches per exit and that has kept my engine temps within range during all flight regimes, and all outside temps. It really has been the key to keeping the engine cool and happy.

4) K&N Air Filter: Ditch the stock paper filter for a much better K&N. They breath easier, and can be cleaned and reused.

5) AeroInjector: I use it, and I like it. I have the standard per-plans setup, using a pull cable to the Sonex throttle quadrant. My fuel system is simple and only uses a billet 40 micron filter (no gascolator).

6) Oil recovery system: I fabricated a separator system to recover the oil mist blown out the breather. This has cut my oil consumption to about 0.25 qt per oil change (25 hrs).


Adds and Options:

1) Gear Leg Stiffeners: Simple strips of wood attached to the gear leg cut down the resonance frequency when taxiing at gross weight (ie no shimmy). They add that extra little bit of smoothness on landing too, preventing you from getting bounced back into the air after a not-so-perfect landing (really only a problem when heavy).

2) Fiberglass Intersection fairings: simple to make and compliment the lines around the gear leg fairings. Mine totally enclose the brake hardware as well.

3) Low-fuel warning camera: Inexpensive backup camera mounted under the panel "looking" a the tank sidewall. This way I can "see" the fuel level in the tank due to the translucent nature of the plastic tank. Comes in handy for confirming the last 4 gallons of fuel, and whether you can breath easy or divert immediately for landing.

4) Dynon Skyview: Love the simplicity of the system, and very capable. It also allows for angle of attack for next to nothing (literally pennies to add this feature to a Skyview), and works fantastic with the Red Cube flow transducer. I routinely compare my calculated fuel burned with the fuel added at the pump and it is ALWAYS within 0.1-0.2 gal! Best of all it works with 100LL and car gas, including ethanol, so no worries there.

5) Koger sun shade: Expensive, but oh-so-nice! They recommend the "Small Universal". However, if Koger was to make the small universal 4" longer (add one more bow plus enough track and material) it would be perfect!

6) Electric Seat Warmers: Amazon sells a universal car seta kit for under $50 that includes everything needed for 2 seats. The power requirements are low enough (3-5 amps per seat) that just about any engine can keep up with it.


For more info, check out my website for all the details! http://www.sonex604.com

Jeff

[Sonerai13]

Regarding the tires you used, did you weigh them to see what the difference was between the stock tires and tubes and the ones you used?

Sorry for butting in, but we can answer that question. We weighed the standard tires and tubes, and also weighed 5.00x5 aircraft tires and tubes. The standard Sonex tires and tubes came in at 6.5 lbs. The 5.00x5 tires and tubes came in at a little over 9 lbs. So you're adding roughly 2.5 to 3 lb by going with the 5.00x5 tires.

[WaiexN143NM]

Hi all,
A few mods we put on we like:

1) larger tailwheel. Much better ! Especially the noise.
2) gas spring on canopy. We want to convert to swing
back someday, got the retro kit.
3) hinged inst. panel at bottom. So nice to sit in plane and work on the panel.
4) gear leg wooden dampeners. Fly boy accessories. Fit on back side and wrapped w glass.
5) removable panels on jab baffeling sides.
6) rotec tbi
7) carb/cabin heat muffs.
8)horiz split cowl.
9) vans vents on sides, round plastic vents in lexan windscreen.
10) used the sonex master brake cylx2 in center for diff hyd brakes.
11 dynon skyview tpx adsb engine monitor . 2 axis autopilot.
12) stewart water based epoxy paint.
13) inside primed w duplicolor light green self etching primer.(kragen/o'rielly auto)
14) duckworks lighting.
15) aerographics vinyl trim.
16) pushrod from fuel valve to panel.
17) fuse side handle just in front of left side v tail.
18) harbor freight furniture dolly used on tail wheel for ground handling.
19) pushrod w ball ends on rudder horn to tailwheel.
20) inside of cowl painted w contego the fire stops here. Fire barrier.a/c Spruce. Like white latex paint.
21) opened up cowl exit openings
22) in the alum jab baffles put a curved alum piece in rear of baffle box. Inside for better airflow.
23) blast tubes for coils and regulator
24) fuel vent exits out bottom of cowl
25) second notch on canopy catch for ventilation.
26) kroger sun shade
27) larger k&n airfilter for the jab3300

WaiexN143NM
Michael

[Ercoupechris]

Thanks Joe, I guess I was looking to see what that particular brand of tire weighed . When I replaced the tires on my Ercoupe, I found that there was as much as 2 pounds difference between one brand and another depending on construction. I ended up going with four ply tires on the coupe and saved about 3 1/2 pounds total. The tire manufacturers don't really publish those weights to any degree so it's difficult to know. I think I'm going to try to find a air hawk 500 x 5 four ply tire and see what it weighs on a scale. Unfortunately, I will probably have to buy one to weigh it and then return the ones I don't want or make a trip to desser tire and check what they have. I really want the larger tire because I will be landing on mostly grass strips and some aren't as prepared as you would typically like. On an aside Joe, I did see the information you stated on the weight and balance video that Jeremy did a couple of years ago. Thank you so much for replying

Regarding the tires you used, did you weigh them to see what the difference was between the stock tires and tubes and the ones you used?

Sorry for butting in, but we can answer that question. We weighed the standard tires and tubes, and also weighed 5.00x5 aircraft tires and tubes. The standard Sonex tires and tubes came in at 6.5 lbs. The 5.00x5 tires and tubes came in at a little over 9 lbs. So you're adding roughly 2.5 to 3 lb by going with the 5.00x5 tires.