mini oil sump

[T41pilot]

I've just put oil in my Aerovee turbo for the first time and have oil seeping from the Mini sump drain plug on the bottom. I've got a little seepage around the mounting studs too but it is minor compared to what the drain plug is doing. I've read a few posts where this may not be unusual but I want to make sure that I've done what I could at this point without having to drain the oil and start over. I figure I can address any possible fixes or suggestions you guys have at the first oil change. In the meantime is there a torque value for the drain plug? I have the copper washer installed but there was nothing in the instructions about coating the threads on the plug with anything. Also, my liquid cooling system for the turbo is pretty noisy when it runs. Is this usual? People walking by are going to be wondering what's going on with nobody around the airplane while I'm away eating my pancakes.

[lakespookie]

Not sure on the oil sump but the cooling system is initially a bit noisy due to trapped air you want to run that and get all the trapped air out before actually needing the cooling.

[pappas]

The cooling system is not noisy on my turbo, but the fan can be heard across the ramp. Not a 'bad bearing' kind of noise, just the noise it is supposed to make when it moves a lot of air.

I no longer put the mini-sump on without Permatex black for oil and gas. I put it on both sides of a FelPro sump gasket, I make sure the stud threads have a little on them, and I only put the acorn nuts on slightly better than finger tight. Then I wait at least an hour, if not until the next day, before tightening them to 2 inch-pounds over the stated
torque value.

The same for the sump Plug. In fact, I never remove the sump plug anymore.

I rerouted the Oil separator from the side of the mini-sump into the rear of the Left-hand head near the rockers. (Drilled a hole for a 1/8 NPT fitting). I put a ball valve into the side of the mini sump to act as a quick drain. (Safety wired, of course).
Because the drain takes oil from outside of the spring and screen I can actually drain oil from the sump without getting it all over the place. I just warm up the engine and the warm oil flows like.....well.....like warm oil! How nice for me!

[T41pilot]

Thanks Lou. I will be installing a drain out the side of the sump as well when the sump comes off next time. Most of my seepage is around the drain plug. I searched the web for a torque value for VW drain plug and found a reference for 18 Ft/lbs and another chart that said 25 Ft/lbs. Both did not say if these were for a regular oil pan or for a sump setup. So do either of these values seem reasonable for our setup? I'm not torqued that far at this point because I didn't want to strip something. I'm only at 10 right now.

Did you ever get an answer on your Turbo Question? References to Garrett T-2 and T-25 seem to produce results that might be the correct gaskets needed for the exhaust. Amazon sources those. I haven't confirmed that these are correct yet but it's worth a look.

[pappas]

I don't know the torque spec for the main plug. I just tighten those until they seat firmly plus 1/4 turn. If it develops a drip, another 1/8th to 1/4 turn. Likely the last time you will need to remove that plug if you put in the quick drain valve.

I was informed that the turbo is a Garrett TB2568. The A/R ratio on mine is 0.67. However, the separation between the waste-gate and the exhaust chambers is machined away making one cavity rather than two under the exhaust flange. This is likely done for Sonex by their turbo supplier per Sonex's request. Perhaps to save weight by requiring a simpler flange and exhaust pipe design. (Just guessing here). Careful inspection reveals the machining marks. The original, unaltered, chamber can be seen in images of the TB2568 online.

The stock gaskets must be cut to reflect the machining. I bought a couple and a friend of mine scanned one into his CAD program. He is now able to laser cut the gaskets for me out of any gasket material I give him. Much faster to keep them on hand.

[Area 51%]

My Clymer repair manual (published July, 1977) lists the sump nut torque as 5 foot pounds, and the drain plug at 25.

You might try a crush washer under the drain plug. The Chinese might not have the drain plug contact surface perfectly perpendicular to the threads.