Aerovee oil Temps

[429TB]

After reading the threads you sent me on your airplane do you think I could cut a small amount off of my spring and bring my pressure down slightly? 60 Psi at cruise epm seems high compared to others. The more I read and watch the more I think I may have very little flow through my cooler.

[Bryan Cotton]

My pressures were about 70psi in cruise and shortening my spring dropped about 10psi. But this is just what I did, not condoned by anyone.

If it was me I'd mess with the wiring first - dedicated signal and return to your MFD or gauge. Then polish the plungers. Then decide if further experiments were warranted.

[Mike53]

The springs that come with aerovee engines are after market and like mine on my Hummel engine they are stiff . I went to a dedicated VW repair shop and bought original springs and that solved my high pressure problem. Pretty cheap fix.

[Bryan Cotton]

The springs that come with aerovee engines are after market and like mine on my Hummel engine they are stiff . I went to a dedicated VW repair shop and bought original springs and that solved my high pressure problem. Pretty cheap fix.

All the internet offerings I could find were high pressure springs. If anyone has a link to an OEM spring that would be cool. I wish I still had the two junk motors a friend gave me decades ago.

[429TB]

Just pulled the front spring and plunger. Spring is shiny aftermarket i assume. Plunger shows wear and didn't come out right away. Not saying it was stuck because it did fall out about 2 minutes after pulling the plug but it looks like it could be binding up. Think that could cause the oil to bypass the cooler ? Pics attached .

[Bryan Cotton]

Hard to say - but I think polishing it can only do good.

At zero oil pressure, like when not running, you should get max flow path to the cooler. As pressure builds it will compress the spring and reduce flow to the cooler. Does the plunger go all the way to the top of the bore?

[429TB]

As best I can tell it does. When I removed the bolt, about 1/2 to 3/4 of the spring was extended below the threads in the hole. The spring is very stiff. Kinda think I need to go back to the stock spring and start from there.

On another note, I found the old oil pump. The previous owner pulled this one off and put a new one on. He also added an extra oil sump, which I removed due to high oil temps, hoping to increase the air flow to the cooler since the extra sump was blocking 90% of the opening on the cowling.

Thought about changing the stock aeroconversions oil pump plate for this one and routing this direct to the cooler. Just to see if it fixes my temp problem. Then work it from there. Thoughts on that ?

Thanks again. You've all have been a huge help on short notice.

[Bryan Cotton]

I'd try one thing at a time to figure out the root cause. I personally would go after wiring first. If that doesn't change anything then that oil pump will put 100% of your flow through the cooler - eliminating another variable.

[429TB]

Ok. I think that's a good plan. Dedicated ground to the RDAC and insulate the wire going to the sending unit ? And test the new and old temp sender.

[429TB]

I will get the wiring fixed / checked this weekend. I emailed sonex and they gave a quick reply. Their recommendation is to put the top oil cooler back on and start from there. Which I fully support doing. Only thing I will need is the cooler as I believe I have everything else. I do need to check the S/N on the adapter as they have an improved one.

I have one question before I remove everything. I have a oil pump cover as pictured above that has AN6 fittings and can connect my cooler directly to this. If I connect both ends to the pump cover and the oil pump discharge to the oil pump case is not plugged on the outlet side, will the pump provide enough oil to the cooler and engine? Or does one of them need plugged to operate properly ?

I'll order the top cooler and other supplies tonight after confirming the SN and what else is needed.