Here is the final piece of the puzzle, crank position sensor.
I used a Honeywell 1GT101DC gear-tooth sensor because I had one laying around, there are probably better sensors around and it does require a pull up resistor to work properly with the Microsquirt ECU. Having said that it works perfectly.
I use extended propeller bolts to trigger the sensor, one bolt is shorter than the other five and this bolt provides the "missing pulse" that starts the injection sequence.
Refining the bracket that holds the sensor will probably next receive my attention, however it works just fine. I had considered a much more complicated arrangement with a notched wheel on the prop shaft or on the rear ignition triggers but it does not fit with my "keep it simple approach.
Some may comment about out of balance forces with different length bolts I am at the moment prepared to live with tiny effect if any. The bolts could probably be shortened with the sensor set closer to the hub and still work, I just haven't bothered.
- CrankPos1.jpg (77 KiB) Viewed 5480 times
- CrankPos2.jpg (64.6 KiB) Viewed 5480 times
- CrankPos3.jpg (53.29 KiB) Viewed 5480 times