Getting ready

[lakespookie]

Sounds good i am waiting on my wing kit and fuse will follow that so maybe we can trade tips later in the year =)

[Gmoney]

Sounds good i am waiting on my wing kit and fuse will follow that so maybe we can trade tips later in the year =)

Sounds great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gmoney]

A little progress today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gmoney]

https://youtu.be/1MUEUm9l_7o

My video build log. Nothing special.
G


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bryan Cotton]

https://youtu.be/1MUEUm9l_7o
My video build log. Nothing special.
G

Good video - and the big scary cut is one of those things you get used to. You have a good attitude on the process and I think it's better to make some mistakes along the way rather than succumb to paralysis by analysis. Remember, anybody can do it right the first time but real skill is shown when we fix screwups.

There is no sense deburring twice. Take out half of those #40 clecoes, upsize to #30, then the other half, then disassemble and deburr.

Lay out all the holes on your hinge pin. Clamp your hinge pin to the lip, just the top surface. Gnu-vise is the tool of choice but little C clamps will also work. Do your measurement on hinge on either end and the middle. Transfer holes to that lip. Remove the hinge pin (mark which ruddervator it is for) and put it aside. Put the ruddervator on a FLAT surface and transfer the holes from the lip to the other part.

I made some thin scraps of metal to hook over the leading edge of the ruddervators, ailerons, and flaps. Measure out your rivet holes once, transfer it to that strip of metal, and that speeds up the process of locating holes.

[pappas]

It might be too late for this advice but I suggest that everyone layout and rivet each side of the Flaps, ailerons, elevators, or ruddervators with the side opposite to which you are working on clamped to a flat work surface. It is really easy to get a twist in them if you are handling them or they can move while drilling or riveting.

Additionally, I NEVER drill or rivet a hinge to any surface, especially a long run, if the hinge is separated from the other half. It seems like each separate half would maintain its "straightness", but it rarely does.

If one side is riveted to the flap or aileron without being attached to the other half of the hinge with the pin it is very easy for the hinge to NOT actually be straight. You won't find this out until you try to assemble the flap or aileron to the wing. That is when you have a hell of a time trying to get the hinge pin to slide smoothly between the two halves. 1/32nd or 1/16th of an inch will have you wondering why the pins won't slide in and bind or why the hinges don't mate exactly.

Do yourself a favor and make your layouts with both halves of the hinges attached to each other.

[GordonTurner]

That is EXCELLENT advice from Lou.

Gordon

[Bryan Cotton]

I've always put my hinges on as halves. But I also always clamp them and check straightness.

[Gmoney]

Thank you guys! More mistakes made last night for sure. I’m headed to do some more work now. I’ll update again soon.
G


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bryan Cotton]

My flap and ailerons were documented here:
viewtopic.php?f=39&t=578&start=500

At the moment the photobucket links seem to be working, though with a photobucket watermark.

If you go one page past that link you will see the tool for marking the rib holes I was talking about.

Edit: I found the picture and am adding it.

flap hole marking tool.jpg (41.46 KiB) Viewed 2955 times