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Thanks Kip. One more question, what was the rivet separation on the doublers? 1 inch?

One inch is fine. Anything that looks "JAR" (just about right) should work.

I should have the cowl off in the next week or and and I'll take some pics... ;)

fastj22 wrote:Thanks Kip. One more question, what was the rivet separation on the doublers? 1 inch?

Here's a pic. These were hastily built and the metal on hand was probably too thick but they work...no more cracking... :P

Kip,

I've had to do the same on my J3300. Pulled the cowl recently and noticed that my patches now have cracks! I've got my conditional inspection coming up in April and I'm thinking about re-doing the baffle sides and somehow incorporating movement joints. I've still got a few months to think about it.

Vertical running hinge pins would probably work great where the doublers are and provide relief... :P

sonex293 wrote:Kip,

I've had to do the same on my J3300. Pulled the cowl recently and noticed that my patches now have cracks! I've got my conditional inspection coming up in April and I'm thinking about re-doing the baffle sides and somehow incorporating movement joints. I've still got a few months to think about it.

Adding to the above list, get one of these...

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... ckdv52.php

N111YX wrote:Vertical running hinge pins would probably work great where the doublers are and provide relief... :P

sonex293 wrote:Kip,

I've had to do the same on my J3300. Pulled the cowl recently and noticed that my patches now have cracks! I've got my conditional inspection coming up in April and I'm thinking about re-doing the baffle sides and somehow incorporating movement joints. I've still got a few months to think about it.

Could one just cut a relief channel and seal the gap with the red baffle tape like the front?

That might work as long as the stresses don't migrate to the top of the box. Mechanically binding the structures opposite the relief cut would be best I think...

fastj22 wrote:

N111YX wrote:Vertical running hinge pins would probably work great where the doublers are and provide relief... :P

sonex293 wrote:Kip,

I've had to do the same on my J3300. Pulled the cowl recently and noticed that my patches now have cracks! I've got my conditional inspection coming up in April and I'm thinking about re-doing the baffle sides and somehow incorporating movement joints. I've still got a few months to think about it.

Could one just cut a relief channel and seal the gap with the red baffle tape like the front?

Do you have the Aerovee carb installed? If so do you have any tips on tuning it? I got mine recently, after the backorder, and can"t get tuned following their directions. I have the 2200 Jabiru.

Jim wrote:Do you have the Aerovee carb installed? If so do you have any tips on tuning it? I got mine recently, after the backorder, and can"t get tuned following their directions. I have the 2200 Jabiru.

While it's a long subject that has been covered over and over in the "Yahoo" groups, the first bit of advice is don't kill your engine with heat by running it up to high power on the ground. Many people get it running decently for takeoff and finalize the tuning after seeing EGT numbers in flight. Please use caution regardless of what you do...