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I wish I had thought of this before. This poorly made 2x4 tool bolts across the top mounting holes. Lets the person react the torque of the breaker bar or torque wrench nearly in plane. The person holding the half prop also grabs one side of it.

Will one of these tools work on an Aerovee?
https://www.jbugs.com/product/16-9602.html

Seems like if the starter ring diameter is the same that it would.

The ring gear on a VW car is just under 11in. The Aerovee is 9.
I don't think I would subject the ring gear/hub assembly on the Aerovee to that kind of torque, even if they were the same.

Thanks. I did think the ring gear seems a little soft. We have crashed the starter a couple times and have the damage to show for it.

Rev 2 - some of the worst welding I've ever done but works great. Still using the same half prop for torque reaction.

I've made this flywheel lock to adapt to the case holder. Still need to get it bolted up somehow.

Here is how I got it bolted up. Not shown, there are three AN960 washers between the aluminum and the leg of the torque bar.


Rear view:


For removing the gland nut I'll move the teeth grabber to the other side. That one already has a 1/4" bolt to hold the second leg on.

I'll be trying this out tomorrow.

Success!


227 ft-lbs is a lot. I need to soften up the handle of my weldment.

A trip down memory lane - this was our first method for torquing the gland nut. Weighed Adam, marked the spot on the wrench where to stand, and I reacted the torque standing on the half prop.


I like the new tool a lot better.

Bryan Cotton wrote:A trip down memory lane - this was our first method for torquing the gland nut. Weighed Adam, marked the spot on the wrench where to stand, and I reacted the torque standing on the half prop.

First time torquing gland nut.png

That's pretty much what I did. 2x8 with holes to grab the prop hub bolts. Someone stand on it, and I stand on the torque wrench/bar. Easy, peasy. No overthinking. 2x8 and breaker bar to undo the gland nut. Done it many times.