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Mike, I always appreciate you sharing your Aerovee experience. Thanks!

I made covers for those access holes I added to the baffles, for the top aft nuts. You can see a #6 screw, with a rivet tail next to it. An aluminum pop rivet holds the cover off to the side and it pivots on that rivet.


Same cover pivoted for access. I'm holding the covers for the other side. Inside cover gets a nutplate. Outside cover gets a circle piece riveted to it. This circle piece is the thickness of the baffle.


View from inside:


I had to trim the inside piece on the other side due to interference. There are other ways to do this but this is what I came up with. What I like about it is all the pieces except the screw are captive. There is not much room between the intake and the baffle wall, so minimal effort to get the inside cover out of the way or lined back up.

Nice!

Flyinhull wrote:Nice!

Thanks! Welcome to the forum.

Here is an illustration of how I can get to all 4 top bolts for torque, with the manifold in place.


Box extender on the front bolt, open end extender on the center aft bolt behind the manifold. You can just see my cover, mostly hidden by the intake manifold and hose.

Dumb question. With a Rotax 503, the re torquing is done by loosening a single head bolt nut at a time then torquing it to spec. Almost invariably the nut will turn more than it's original position. In other words, if you check the torque (195 inch pounds) the nut doesn't move, but if you back it off a quarter turn then re torque, it will turn past its original position to reach 195. This works for Rotax. Why is VW different?

Bryan Cotton wrote:Mike, I always appreciate you sharing your Aerovee experience. Thanks!

I made covers for those access holes I added to the baffles, for the top aft nuts. You can see a #6 screw, with a rivet tail next to it. An aluminum pop rivet holds the cover off to the side and it pivots on that rivet.

Clever!!