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push rod tubes
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Re: push rod tubes
by vwglenn » Mon May 09, 2016 10:16 am
VWs don't leak....They mark their territory. Mantra of most VW owners who actually drive their cars. In my experience it's always been nearly impossible to get a leak free VW engine. They will always weep or drip from somewhere.
The stock pushrod tubes have an accordion like spring setup on each end. Every time I install a head I'll tug on both ends of the tubes to stretch them a bit so they get squished in a bit As I torque down the heads. I've never built a stroked engine like the Aerovee (all mine have been 1600-1776cc) but I would imagine that step would be more critical for an engine with a longer stroke. And, as mentioned above, make sure the seams for the tubes are up.
Couple things I do to reduce leaks on the VWs I've owned...
Use the original valve covers and bales with quality cork/rubber gaskets. Not sure if you can with the aerovee because the bales stick out more than the nuts on the aluminium valve covers and some of the ratio rockers used on performance engines can have clearance issues. But If I could I would. Plus they're SOOOO much easier to remove for valve adjustments.
On the sump plate there are six 9mm nuts. One time I replaced the copper washers with stat o seals and it cured the seeping problem I had from those nuts. They didn't last through too many oil changes though. I still used the crush washer on the big bolt in the middle of the plate but you might consider getting a sump plate that doesn't have the center bolt for oil drain. It'll be messier when changing the oil but eliminates a leak point for the rest of the time.
A little extra RTV around outside the cam plug after I finish putting the case together and before I mount the flywheel (usually doesn't leak but I replaced two main seals once before I realized an engine was leaking from the cam plug).
ALWAYS buy German or German quality seals. There are a lot of places you can cut corners and save money on VWs but this is not one of them in my opinion.
When using Permatex...only use "just enough" more is not better.
The stock pushrod tubes have an accordion like spring setup on each end. Every time I install a head I'll tug on both ends of the tubes to stretch them a bit so they get squished in a bit As I torque down the heads. I've never built a stroked engine like the Aerovee (all mine have been 1600-1776cc) but I would imagine that step would be more critical for an engine with a longer stroke. And, as mentioned above, make sure the seams for the tubes are up.
Couple things I do to reduce leaks on the VWs I've owned...
Use the original valve covers and bales with quality cork/rubber gaskets. Not sure if you can with the aerovee because the bales stick out more than the nuts on the aluminium valve covers and some of the ratio rockers used on performance engines can have clearance issues. But If I could I would. Plus they're SOOOO much easier to remove for valve adjustments.
On the sump plate there are six 9mm nuts. One time I replaced the copper washers with stat o seals and it cured the seeping problem I had from those nuts. They didn't last through too many oil changes though. I still used the crush washer on the big bolt in the middle of the plate but you might consider getting a sump plate that doesn't have the center bolt for oil drain. It'll be messier when changing the oil but eliminates a leak point for the rest of the time.
A little extra RTV around outside the cam plug after I finish putting the case together and before I mount the flywheel (usually doesn't leak but I replaced two main seals once before I realized an engine was leaking from the cam plug).
ALWAYS buy German or German quality seals. There are a lot of places you can cut corners and save money on VWs but this is not one of them in my opinion.
When using Permatex...only use "just enough" more is not better.
Glenn
Sonex #600
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Sonex #600
N889AP
- vwglenn
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