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We removed our flywheel and replaced the seal. Old seal:


Check out our nifty new prop. Watch out Lonnie! Another competitor.


Somewhere I saw a post from Randy down at Area 51 in Florida. He mentioned the poor surface finish of the flywheel part that rides on the seal. I polished it up with scotchbrite as best as I could. There was definitely a bevel in the corner of the old seal.


Lou, I had tried adding a check valve to my air-oil separator. That worked poorly. Good to know the anti-splat system works better. I'll see how this seal replacement goes.

Interesting topic even though mine is a Revmaster. I too have the Anti-Splat exhaust vacuum kit (but not the separator). My engine seems to be dry in flight but after it sits a few hours something in the back leaks and there is like a tablespoon of oil on the floor in the morning. One day I'll probably pull the engine to see what is going on. Don't know if the R2300 is built like the Aerovee in that area since I've not seen either of them apart. Sure would like to figure it out. Annual starts next week but the leak is not pesky enough, yet, for me to deal with it.

Bryan, you literally posted that while I was typing. Thanks for the pictures. Now if I could get a picture like that for the R2300.

BRS wrote:Bryan, you literally posted that while I was typing. Thanks for the pictures. Now if I could get a picture like that for the R2300.

Sonex has an Aerovee manual you can download. They also have a YouTube series on building the Aerovee starring Joe Norris. They are really well done.

Made my last post on the wrong thread. It was meant for this one, see...
viewtopic.php?f=9&p=57451#p57451

I decided to take that hub polishing a little further. I am a polishing guy after all. I mounted it in the lathe:


I ran it at 240 RPM and started with maroon scotch brite. Then I stepped through 1000, 2000, and 3000 grit sandpaper.


I think that is a pretty seal friendly surface. The RTV as another 45 minutes to cure and then we will loctite & torque the gland nut.