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If you drilled through the nut, you just guaranteed yourself an oil leak. The whole idea of the acorn nut is to stop any oil that gets past the sump threads. Enter the copper gaskets under (or on top of) the acorn nuts.

Area 51% wrote:If you drilled through the nut, you just guaranteed yourself an oil leak. The whole idea of the acorn nut is to stop any oil that gets past the sump threads. Enter the copper gaskets under (or on top of) the acorn nuts.

I drilled through the corner, not through the threaded hole in the middle.

Edit: had I drilled through the center, how could I have gotten the safety wire through?

Presumably, the stud doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the nut. If it does, the sump plate will leak due to lack of tension.
Good job with the corner engineering.

Area 51% wrote:Presumably, the stud doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the nut. If it does, the sump plate will leak due to lack of tension.

I don't think it does. The copper is squished a little bit not destroyed from following torque specs like last time. I used a nutdriver and did it by feel.

Update - no more oil puddle under the engine. Looks like success!

I'd edit that last post, but that would be dishonest. There is plenty of oil on the ground. Not from static sitting, but from when I run it. Those updates go in the "quest for the elusive dry aerovee" thread.

I think I might be running lean. I have high EGTs and little difference when I go lean and rich on the mixture. Unfortunately my nifty reversing linkages are in the way, so I have to pull my aerocarb out to make the adjustment. The manual says 1/8 to 1/2 turn. I'm thinking of shooting for 1/4 turn but would like to hear opinions from those with experience.

You've just entered one of the most frustrating aspects of phase 1 testing. A little can go a long way.......or make no difference at all. If you don't yet have to lean to get full throttle, I'd start with 1/4 turn richer. It's not likely you're going to hit it right on the first try anyway, so go for an overshoot, then come back.

The frustration comes from turning the needle carrier 1/4 turn, only to have the setscrew muck-up your adjustment leaving you with a random setting.

If you don't have one already, put a 3/16 ball bearing between the carrier and setscrew. It keeps the setscrew from turning the carrier.

You have my sympathy.

I finally understand the ball bearing thing. I'll try that - someday. I did my 1/4 turn richer and it seems to run great, and the EGTs are now reasonable.

I think for now I'm not going to mess with it.