A couple of questions

[WesRagle]

Hi Wes,
I went for the blue silicone baffle, attached with soft Alu rivets. Looks good and works well. see pic.

Hi Dirk,

In the name of progress I just went with what I had. Rubberized fabric and the compression seal that came with the baffle kit. Rubberized down the sides and compression seal front and back.



I was going to use the rubberized fabric on the back but too late (after making and drilling the backing strips) realized that I had trimmed the baffle fence too close to the cowl to use the fabric. So..., I punted and used the compression seal. I'm not so sure it was a bad idea. If the fence is trimmed close the stuff makes a very tight seal.

Pic of the seal in the front with cowl on:



Pic of the rear seal with the cowl on:



Hard to tell from the pics but the seal is tight. I assume it will stay that way.

I *will* be working on something else tomorrow :-)

Thanks

[dirkverdonck]

I installed a rubber prop not to damage the engine in case of a nose over...

[WesRagle]

Hi Guys,

EDIT: DRAWING REVISIONS (ONX-G01) HAVE MOVED THE LOCATION FOR THE MAIN FUEL OUTLET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SUMP.

Years ago I had a Sonex. After about a year the plane developed a slow leak around the fuel shut off valve. I don't know if it was the fitting or if the fuel valve needed tightening. It really didn't make a difference because I was afraid to touch it fearing I would make the situation worse.

So, under the heading of "Known Problem, Known Solution", today was Oops fitting day.

David Amsler provided some excellent tools to help with the process. However, there is one thing that makes the Onex different from a Sonex. The sump does not have a sloped face at the main fuel outlet. That posses access problems as shown in these pics.

Can't get a straight shot with a large chuck drill.



My solution was to use a uni-bit extension I happen to have. To complete the drilling solution I had to source a uni-bit with a 1" maximum hole size. I couldn't find many but at least the one I did find was short and so did not have to have the tip lopped off.





The solution to sanding the inside of the large hole was to fashion a tool similar (but inferior) to what David supplied that would fit my 1/4" chuck air drill. The tool was made from "stuff" I had on hand, the mandrel from a die grinder, a backing washer (standard AN stuff), and a washer of 1" outer diameter and proper hole size to fit the mandrel made from 1/8" steel plate.

Here are the two tools side by side:





The drilling worked best at high speed with light to moderate pressure. Every thing went pretty smooth. At one point the `1" bit did quit cutting. After a brief panic attack I pulled the drill out and saw why.



Cleared the bit and continued to drill through. Then the next problem. The drilling leaves a nasty burr inside the tank and I couldn't pull the drill back through. Also, the hole is deep enough that I no longer had access to the set screw that held the bit in the extension. The first thought that went through my mind was to send the tank with bit inside and extension hanging out back to Sonex and tell them I received a defective tank. The thought faded quickly :-). I had to reach in beside the bit with an exacto and cut the burr to remove the bit.

There is one more Onex specific thing. The nut on the large fitting had to have to corners ground off to clear the tank. Further, the side of the nut toward the tank had to be more aggressively ground to clear the fillet where the sump meets the tank.



David supplied good instructions. Read them when you get the tools and once again right before you start and take heed. The only problems I had were due to not re-reading the instructions right before starting.

Anyway, it went pretty well. I'm going to order plugs tonight so I can leak check the tank. If that test passes, I will be ready to return to tools.

Thank you to David and Stan for their help.

Wes

[Rofomoto]

Good write up Wes... looked like a pain to do. I guess the unabit couldn’t be shook out the filler neck...anyway good job... fingers crossed for no leaks.

[WesRagle]

Good write up Wes... looked like a pain to do. I guess the unabit couldn’t be shook out the filler neck...anyway good job... fingers crossed for no leaks.

Thanks Billy!

[WesRagle]

Hey Guys,

Does anyone have any tricks, tips, suggestions, maybe an easy way to bend the canopy bows? I remember struggling with it years ago and still don't know a good way.



Thanks,

[dirkverdonck]

Hi Wes,
I put marks every inch and numbered them, then started bending in the bench with soft inserts and continued until I had a perfect fit.
Takes time but no special tools or techniques required.

[WesRagle]

Hi Guys,

Here is my solution for bending the tubing.





Works pretty well.

Hints:

Work from one end to the other rather than middle to end.
Never grab a section that is already formed and use it as a handle to make another bend.
The ends of the tube don't have to touch the template as long as when the ends are pushed to proper width the tubing meets the outline of the template, without actually touching it.
You may need a cheater bar as you reach the end of the second side.

Forever Forward

[WesRagle]

Hi Guys,

I'm still plugging along. Finished up the canopy.

I rebuilt the hook angle to allow for ventilation during taxi and ramp time.



Added spring load to the latched position so I wouldn't be afraid it would come unlatched by natures forces while unattended. Also used my last nifty folding handle.



Had to make a long locator pin so it would remain securely latched in the vent position.



Since it is spring loaded, had to add a little button handle so I could hold the frame while latching.



Anyway, all finished up and sitting in the corner with the wheel pants waiting on final assembly.





Time to start serious FWF planing. I need some heavy wire similar to this, only the proper length.



Question: Where can I purchase some pre-made cable to specific length for battery to master solenoid and master solenoid to starter?

Thanks for Your Time,

Wes

[Rynoth]

Question: Where can I purchase some pre-made cable to specific length for battery to master solenoid and master solenoid to starter?

Thanks for Your Time,

Wes

Hi Wes. Not sure where to get pre-made-length cable. I made my own in the same fashion as every other electrical system wire, by buying cable and crimping the ends. I used Mil Spec 6AWG (from ACS) for the connections you mentioned as well as from a starter mounting bolt back to the negative battery terminal providing a short-length low-resistance path for the entire starter circuit. The process for cutting, stripping and crimping 6AWG is no different than the other dozens of wires you'll be running except maybe using a different tool. If I recall, I just used big tongue and groove pliers to crimp down on those big connectors (sourced at an auto parts store) and the result was good and secure.