SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

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SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby Sonex1517 » Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:11 pm

Hi

Just curious what others have done for page SNX-L03 part -06 tail wheel push rod.

The ends are not fitting well on the tail wheel caster or the rudder horn. If I get one to fit the other is way off....This is the factory supplied push Rod and tail wheel assembly.

Suggestions welcome. I emailed tech support also.


Robbie Culver
Sonex 1517
Chicagoland
Tails and Wings complete - finishing fuselage.
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Sonex 1517
Aero Estates (T25)
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby wlarson861 » Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:24 pm

I used cold rolled steel rod, from the hard ware store and bent it to make the transition from the rudder horn to the steering bracket. I threaded the ends and fitted rod end bearings and lock nuts. This set up does not wear on the rudder horn or tail wheel steering horn. I think my rod is 3/16 and the rod ends were threaded 10-32. 1/4 inch will work if that's what Ace Hardware and aircraft supply has on hand.
Bill Larson
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby rizzz » Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:27 pm

I saw a Sonex on Barnstormers that had one of these installed:
http://www.jdair.com/tailwheel-steering ... lt-on-kit/

Looks like a much better solution than the std sonex pushrod.
Anybody else seen/used this one?
Michael
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby gammaxy » Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:03 pm

I asked the same question here:

viewtopic.php?t=757

I believe my factory-supplied pushrod had the same problem. It seems one of the flanges was welded on about 5-10 degrees off. I attempted to bend it, but ended up kinking the tube rather than bending the flange.

In the end, I followed Kip's suggestion with the steel tube, threaded rod ends, and steel spring pins--mine has survived a handful of landings now. I also like Bill Larson's suggestion of threading steel rod, but have no idea how difficult that is.
Chris Madsen
Aerovee Sonex N256CM
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby Fastcapy » Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:38 pm

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Last edited by Fastcapy on Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike Beck
Oshkosh, WI (KOSH)
Sonex #1145 N920MB
Std Gear, Modified Aerovee, Rotec TBI, Dual Stick, Acro Ailerons
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Airworthiness: 10/24/13, First Flight: 05/18/14
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby N111YX » Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:52 pm

You may wish to consider an AN-970 washer over that rod end, Mike. All rod ends should be "guarded" in case they slip off the bearing... :)
Kip

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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby Fastcapy » Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:24 pm

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Last edited by Fastcapy on Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike Beck
Oshkosh, WI (KOSH)
Sonex #1145 N920MB
Std Gear, Modified Aerovee, Rotec TBI, Dual Stick, Acro Ailerons
MGL Panel
Airworthiness: 10/24/13, First Flight: 05/18/14
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby planeolbob » Wed Oct 08, 2014 11:11 am

Here is what I did. The photos are in the middle of the set:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/53052604@ ... 343703412/

Bob
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby Rynoth » Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:49 am

I had the exact same issue. I emailed sonex, and they sent me a PDF with the CAD drawing of the tailwheel push-rod. The part in my kit matched the drawing exactly. However I had the same fitment issue.

Image
Image

However I was able to put a slight bend in the rod near the upper plate, and this resulted in a very good fit. Time will tell how well that bend holds up.

Image
Ryan Roth
N197RR - Waiex #197 (Turbo Aerovee Taildragger)
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Re: SNX-L03 tail wheel push rod

Postby LarryEWaiex121 » Fri Oct 10, 2014 1:12 pm

Since I have a tig welder, I cut the mounting plate off and filed the rod end to the appropriate angle and re-welded the plate back into position. I found the initial fit very out of wack and this seemed to be the best accommodation for the problem.
Since that was done three years ago, I now have 400 hrs on the airframe and I went one step further at about the 150 hour mark.
The rudder horn hole does not seem to wear. The tiller arm hole did develop measurable wear. I drilled out the hole on the tiller arm to accommodate a flange bushing the same size as used on the control rod holes. 5/16" if memory serves me right?
Now each year at condition inspection I simply pop out the bushing and toss it over my shoulder and install a fresh unit and I'm back to new condition, with minimal slop.

Larry
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