SonexBuilders.net

Hi,
Cleveland dimple die page lists 2 dies for 1/8 pulled rivets, the one you want is a new one they came up with about a year ago, labeled 'DIENQ' . Drill to 40, dimple (has a smaller nub) , hole now almost ready for 1/8 rivet. C51 had a good idea , try a #32bit , keep the hole tight. So little material is removed after dimpling that deburring not an issue. Click on the pick/ link for 'DIENQ' it will give more info . Hope this helps. A little more work with your solid rivets, but will look great! Also ,yes the nose ribs easy to create a bump when u wrap skin. Good idea on filing the rib. Thanks to all for suggesting tips.

WaiexN143NM
Michael Radtke

I measured the dimpled #30 hole with a 0.133" pin gage. From what I could find, this is the upper limit for the -4 blind rivets. The #30 hole dimpled with the Avery 120 Deg dimple set made a hole greater than 0.133" I drilled a #31 hole and dimpled with the same set. The hole was right at 0.133", so it is still in range of the rivet hole spec. I then drilled & dimpled a #40 hole with a std. dimple set. That size is not in 120 deg that I could find. Then drilled the dimpled hole to #30. The hole was less than 0.133". Here is a picture of the two holes. The #30 dimpled is on the left & the rivet is flush. The #40 dimpled & reamed hole is on the right and the rivet is not flush.

Also here is a picture of the finished Rt outboard skin riveted. You can see the wing tip attachment. I will use two screws top & bottom at the front. This also gives a ledge to rest the tip front when installing.

And now the left wing outboard is riveted. Yea, I finally get to flip a page on the plans. On to the spoilers.

...and I complained about riveting a Sonex wing....wow....

That is a LONG wing!!

Hey Rick,
Just finishing riveting my right outboard skins also. Ready to flip the page the page and start on the spoilers. I haven't tackled the wing tips yet. I am not too confident the piano hinge will work but we'll see.
Bob Perry
Xenos 55

Good luck with those wing tips. I almost bought the shorter ones! Ended up using anchor nuts from spar forward (top and bottom). Okayed first from tech.
Bob (Xenos no.59)

Hey Bob & Bob,

I followed your idea & used nutplates at the nose also. There is a picture on pg 1 of this post. Once I finish the wing riveting, I am going to make some lighter wing tips. I plan to use the stock ones as a plug & make a mold from it. I bought some S-glass & 1/8" divinycell foam and plan to vacuum bag a fiberglass sandwich. I have some uni carbon I'll use as spar caps for the tips. The stock tips are 14.5 lbs ea.! I used to make 9 ft windsurfers for wave jumping that weighed less than that. If I can make a 7 lb wingtip, I'll save about 15 lbs. That will more than make up for the weight of paint I plan to do later on.

Rick