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Great idea! Especially since the wide angle stock seems to be unavailable.

I often wish I had taken the time to install a Hartwell latch on my oil door! Installing a latch on the round door would have been more complex and taken some time. I was ready to fly...

SonexN76ET wrote:

This is my fuel door prior to final finish and paint with the Hartwell latch.

There is a small aluminum strip underneath the passenger side of the opening for the rule door about 3/8ths of an inch wide that runs the length of the opening that the latch secures to when you close it.

Kip originally shared this idea with me. You can see his on YouTube under his Waiex walk around video.

Jake

N111YX wrote:I often wish I had taken the time to install a Hartwell latch on my oil door! Installing a latch on the round door would have been more complex and taken some time. I was ready to fly...

Not sure if doing this would work with the oil filler location on the VW? I would think massaging a door from 032" or 040" into shape would be possible. Only the hinge line needs to be straight. Other than simplicity there is no need to make a round door for the 3300 filler.
Steve
Sonex 892

Canopy cutting is almost done. I started out using a friend's bandsaw with an 8 tooth per inch blade..wow, way to coarse...should have had a 24 or more blade because it took out big chunks up to 1/16" in size. The cut had many facets, like a gem stone has many facets. Luckily this was the first cut and had about an inch more to cut off.

I read Michael Smith's blog about his replacement canopy and how he used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel. After getting the hang of it with a few test cuts, I thought it worked well. It's not nearly as fast as a bandsaw as shown on the factory video, but the cut is smooth because it melts the plexiglass in the process. Any rough edges were smoothed with 80 thru 180 sandpaper.

HOWEVER, what's up with the big bulge on the sides! I feel like I'm dealing with the cowl again. There is no dolphin nose effect on the top but it sure is on the longeron sides where it must be fastened to the frame. It will take a lot of pressure to push it against the frame.

The picture below is upside down but you can see how much the canopy will have to be pushed in for the rivets to be set.



Ok this picture is right side up but out of focus. You can still make out the large angle between the plexiglass and fuselage side. If I push in the canopy with enough force it will bend in enough to be at 90 degrees to the frame member (almost an "oil can" flex). But that seems to be way too much tension and would probably crack. What is the experience of others on this?


Above my thumb you can see the plexiglass pot-belly bulging out.

Darrick:

That does look "normal" for the side of the canopy. I felt the same way when I got mine to that point but was reassured that's the way they fit. Mine has been good for over 2 years with no cracks. There is a newer video on how to drill the holes on the Sonex/EAA website and do yourself a favor / look it up. They recommend a stepped uni-bit now to drill the holes. Worked great for me.

I didnt like the idea of riveting the perspex, also think there should be more edge distance from the holes. Add the fact that the perspex is stressed at that point. Here is what I did to increase the edge distance and support the perspex.

I'm on the last few items on my punch list...engine baffles, leg fairings, minor changes to the wheel pants and the last major item-canopy. I'll post some pictures in the next few days on the canopy. For now though, here is my canopy lock.



I had made the plans lock pieces some time ago so that's what I used for now. I'd like a more finished look to the outside "handle"...something more ergonomic. That's a winter project. I also replaced the rivets on the handle to machine screws. The other piece to the factory lock won't be used...see the next picture below.


The cam is long enough so it will lock in the partially open position too (not shown).



Coincidentally the cam of the lock is the exact distance from the side skin to the canopy latch. I made the small bend at the top of the cam just to make sure the latch couldn't "sneak" past, as there is a fair amount of play in the locking rail system.

Here is the lock I found in McMaster-Carr...

Darick,
Nicely done!

Ok I'm finally finished with the canopy.

Before...

After...


Another view...


I thought I would get finished without any cracks...WRONG! One started at the outside handle slot going down. The "stop hole" was covered up by the trim piece. The other one was from a rivet hole on the hinge side but will also be covered up by the aluminum trim piece.

The canopy installation ran a close second on the frustration scale, to the cowl which still holds first place in my book. I had one major misfit on the canopy...at the 11:00 aft position, which will be above the pilot's head, the canopy sits proud above the fuselage. I was too far along when this became apparent, to change it. Maybe in a few years I'll make a swing back canopy.

I recently received the K&N air filter which I installed. It is about 1/4" higher which necessitated shortening the carb/intake manifold distance otherwise it would have rubbed the cowl.

Today I put 24 oz of fuel in the tank, checked for leaks...only one loose connection. Tomorrow will install Peter Anson's modified tailwheel steering rod, add a few instrument panel labels and I'm ready to take it to the airport. It's been 4 years but I'll miss my time in the garage, building every day. If I'd be younger I'd think about building another plane.