Waiex-B 0022

[WaiexB22]

I mounted the cowl this weekend. First I made the ring per the plans:

Then I made a centerline and worked from there to mount the canopy. I have skybolts that I will be using at the windscreen and the joint of the two halves. I will be using piano hinge to mate the lower cowl sides and bottom.

I had to cut the top of the cowl slightly to clear the throttle body. After looking further, I am leaning towards running a larger diameter spinner to make the cowl lines a little better.

[WaiexB22]

I have been busy working and I think its time for an update.

I have finished the exhaust welding. I need to repack the muffler and rivet the back in and that will be complete. I will probably knock that out this weekend. I will need a heat shield or two as well. There is a npt port for a smoke nozzle right at the outlet of the muffler. I have compression fitting in there and I plan to make a nozzle that will insert through the compression fitting.

The air box is on and it fits under the cowl, but there is very little room for a cone filter unless I put a blister in the cowl, which I don't want to do to the top unless I absolutely have to. It will likely require an elbow or something else. This is a dry sump engine. I am waiting on an oil tank that I ordered. Once I get the oil tank, I will pick a filter and figure out how to make it work.

I am working on the radiator. Steve Henry sold me one that he took of one of his planes, so it was dirty when I got it, but it cleaned up nice. I am placing it in the belly beneath the engine, beside the muffler. I am building a duct that will isolate the cooling airflow from the cowl. It has a smaller inlet and outlet to reduce drag and improve cooling efficiency. I am actively working on this, but I haven't stopped to take pictures. I welded some angle flanges on the radiator that I will support the duct from. The radiator position shown was approximate. I will try to get some better photos of this this weekend. I need to seal up the flanges and seams in this duct work. I will use silicon flanges at the interface of the cowl, but I need a seam sealer for the corners and seams. Does anyone have a seam sealer or something equivalent that works well with aluminum? I was considering proseal, but I hate working with that stuff and it seams like overkill. I also thought about using HVAC tape, but I'm looking for something a little better than that.

[WaiexB22]

I also installed the universal stick kit, but once again no photos right now. It is done as far as I can get it until I rig the wings. I'll try to get some pictures this weekend.

[Bryan Cotton]

Looks awesome! Here is my air filter setup:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=687&start=10

Edit: I've also added a shroud for some fresh air induction.

[WaiexB22]

Thanks Bryan! I like how you did yours and I will definitely think twice about how I secure mine. I was thinking of using one of those flexible elbows just like you did.

[BobDz]

Robert

Any chance you're within 200 miles of OSH? I'd really like to see your engine.

Thanks

[karmarepair]

I have been busy working and I think its time for an update.

I need to seal up the flanges and seams in this duct work. I will use silicon flanges at the interface of the cowl, but I need a seam sealer for the corners and seams. Does anyone have a seam sealer or something equivalent that works well with aluminum? I was considering proseal, but I hate working with that stuff and it seams like overkill. I also thought about using HVAC tape, but I'm looking for something a little better than that.

I've used high temp RTV for sealing my baffles and firewall, in some cases reinforced with fiberglass dry wall tape, and/or overlaid with aluminum foil, or aluminum foil tape. There are SINGLE PART moisture cure urethanes (look for Sika or PU Plus) and SINGLE PART moisture cured polysulfides (Boat Life) that are a little less mess than mixing ProSeal or other two part polysulfides.

My favorite trick is to cut a patch of aluminum foil the size and shape of where I want to seal, use a notched trowel to spread High Temp RTV on it evenly, squish two layers of fiberglass drywall tape at 90 and 45 degrees into the uncured elastomer, then "wet it out" with more RTV. Slap it on sticky side to the surface to seal. The slight stiffness of the foil and the tape holds the "membrane" in place pretty well, but you can also "fixture" it in place with Blue Tape. RTV WILL NOT cure (actually, none of the single part elastomers will....) in thick sections without tricks like adding cornstarch and teeny bit of water to it to carry moisture into the depth of the molding, but I've had no trouble with the technique just described.

Nice work, carry on!

[WaiexB22]

Robert

Any chance you're within 200 miles of OSH? I'd really like to see your engine.

Thanks

I am outside of Charlotte, NC. I guess it could be 2 hours if you're flying something really fast.... In all seriousness, I'll have it at OSH when it's done. Until then, you're welcome to see it if you're in the Charlotte area.

[WaiexB22]

I have been busy working and I think its time for an update.

I need to seal up the flanges and seams in this duct work. I will use silicon flanges at the interface of the cowl, but I need a seam sealer for the corners and seams. Does anyone have a seam sealer or something equivalent that works well with aluminum? I was considering proseal, but I hate working with that stuff and it seams like overkill. I also thought about using HVAC tape, but I'm looking for something a little better than that.

I've used high temp RTV for sealing my baffles and firewall, in some cases reinforced with fiberglass dry wall tape, and/or overlaid with aluminum foil, or aluminum foil tape. There are SINGLE PART moisture cure urethanes (look for Sika or PU Plus) and SINGLE PART moisture cured polysulfides (Boat Life) that are a little less mess than mixing ProSeal or other two part polysulfides.

My favorite trick is to cut a patch of aluminum foil the size and shape of where I want to seal, use a notched trowel to spread High Temp RTV on it evenly, squish two layers of fiberglass drywall tape at 90 and 45 degrees into the uncured elastomer, then "wet it out" with more RTV. Slap it on sticky side to the surface to seal. The slight stiffness of the foil and the tape holds the "membrane" in place pretty well, but you can also "fixture" it in place with Blue Tape. RTV WILL NOT cure (actually, none of the single part elastomers will....) in thick sections without tricks like adding cornstarch and teeny bit of water to it to carry moisture into the depth of the molding, but I've had no trouble with the technique just described.

Nice work, carry on!

Thanks for the suggestion! I may give the RTV and foil method a shot on a sample piece this week.