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Bryan Cotton wrote:Question for the group: does the bottom pin really need to be two pieces? Length makes it harder to insert due to friction. Or does it need to be one due to the exhaust being in the way later?

Hi Bryan
I use only the one long pin there. I'd try that first, you can always modify it to two pins later if its a pain.
Steve
Sonex 892

Bryan Cotton wrote:Question for the group: does the bottom pin really need to be two pieces? Length makes it harder to insert due to friction. Or does it need to be one due to the exhaust being in the way later?

I wasn't sure what you were talking about at first... in looking at your photos it does not appear that you have made the cutouts for the cowling air exit yet? If you're talking about the pin that joins the 2 cowling halves at the bottom, I used 1 pin. I bent the pin 90 degrees at the end with a good 3 inches past the bend, giving me a pretty good grip on the pin while inserting/removing it.

Forgot to mention that I enjoyed Kip's video. My cooling exits are cut out now. Here is one of my cowl flaps riveted on.


Here is my fuel door cutout.


Here is the cowl alignment on the prop hub. I'll tweak the engine mounting a bit.

I tapered and bent the long lower pin for the bottom cowl seam. Makes it easier to get in.

I don't know if you want to move the engine to fit the cowl. It may be a real PITA but you may want to refit the cowl to the spinner/engine to make sure you have a straight flying plane.

Bryan, consider that the bottom pin will be tight at first but will loosen up after a few hours from vibration and oil residue from inside the cowl. I worried about mine initially but it "bedded" in after just a few hours of flight.

Bob, I'm a firm believer that perfect is the enemy of good enough. To get the engine to its rigged location I had to crank down on the top motor mounts. I've uncranked a bit and it seems pretty good. I may have a slight rig imperfection, or a slight cowl misalignment, or most likely both. For now it is what it is. I've got the rest of my life to tweak it, but I'd like to get it flying first. Kip, good to know the hinges loosen up a bit. So far it seems easy to get the vertical split cowl on and off, contrary to some of the discussion I've seen.

We worked the fuel door today. Paused and took a picture of the prop in place.

Bryan, on the bright side, it'll be longer before your engine sags enough on the bushings to start making fiberglass smoke!

Ryan, it's almost like I planned it that way.

Inlets opened up:


Two inlets:


When we transferred the hole for the fuel door Southco, disaster struck. Looks like we need to transfer the Southco towards the center, and glass over the hole.

Bryan,

If you use a Hartwell latch on the fuel filler door you will be happy in the long run. It sure makes it a lot more convenient to visually check your fuel level and the security of your fuel cap as well as when fueling. Since you have to fill the miss drilled hole you could put one in easily now.

Wicks sells surplus latches for around $20.

Jake