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Left hand tail tip is drilled to the skin and the rib in the aft part of the tip is riveted in.

First, I have to confess I am jealous of the fast guys, who got their kits close to the same time I did and seem ready to fly by spring. You guys are amazing.
I made my fairlead blocks tonight. Made a template out of a piece of steel sheet as I posted in the tools area. I whipped out a 3/4" holesaw for the first big hole. I was unhappy with the fit, just a bit too loose. Fortunately I am both the Holesaw King and I have a good reamer collection. I went down to a 11/32" holesaw and then reamed to .750-ish. Very nice fit. I used the stop feature on the drill press to set the depth of the 1/4" counterbore.

It is a shame I need sleep.

I meant an 11/16" holesaw, not 11/32".

I hated working with those phelonic pieces. Especially the rudder pedal and flaps actuator bushings.

I didn't mind working with it, though it smells bad. The holesaw/reamer approach minimized the smoke and fumes.

Don't forget to put the rudder cables with the pre-swaged ends in before you
mount them. ;)

Rick
Sonex 524

Too late, I already forgot. But I was just following the plans. It is a good way to keep the parts together.

We should do the Chicagoland brunches after 10PM. Then I could make them.

Stayed up and finished F28, the aft fuse verticals and rudder stop plates. It was mostly an edge finishing exercise except vertical #5 has to be modified with a big notch to make it a Waiex part. I used a trusty 1 3/4" holesaw - I think I mentioned I am the holesaw king. Then I went and found the parts for F27, the side skins, splices, and longeron angles.
Photos deleted for quota

Looks good Bryan, you're approaching one of the first truly rewarding parts of the project. After you've made yourself a big shiny pile of parts and side panels, that initial cleco of the aft fuselage box is a wonderful feeling.